Technical Tips and
Frequently Asked Questions
Although you may have looked on the VSOC Online Forum, you may not readily find the answer you were looking for. That's where this page will provide invaluable knowledge to you.
If you know of any details or remedies that can help other members get their bike back on the road, then publish your Answers to Frequently Asked Questions on this page.
Go on, share your secrets with the world...
E-mail any details here
There is a wealth of information and handy hints from various clubs around the world. They all ride the same bikes as we do, so it makes sense to let you be able to see how they have fixed their problems or found solutions to ideas etc..
New Link Here: It holds 9 years worth of searchable discussion about the Virago so it's a gold mine of information. The link is: http://archives.bengrosser.com/virago
If you've had problems with your XV1100 starter, then Steve Ward may have the answer to your nightmares. Click here for a detailed page of the work involved (112KB).
You may also want to check out www.drpiston.com for more useful information on many Virago specs and fixes.
Now for some categories, as the page is getting larger... Many of these questions still don't have replies. Please send them in if you know the answers. Thank you.
Q
I want to remove the rear indicators from my 98 535 virago & reposition them further back on the mudguard to
accommodate my pannier bags. I realise I need to lengthen the wiring but was a bit stumped on how to get them
off. Having removed the pinch bolt the outer part that holds the bulb didn't want to pull
off, not wanting to break the wires I left the job until I'd picked someone else's
brains. Just in case it was soldered to the bulb holder !!!!!! .Any tip would be
appreciated.
Please email AnnmrMck@aol.com
and
the webmaster
Q
I want to remove the rear indicators from my 98 535 virago & reposition them further back on the mudguard to
accommodate my pannier bags. I realise I need to lengthen the wiring but was a bit stumped on how to get them
off. Having removed the pinch bolt the outer part that holds the bulb didn't want to pull
off, not wanting to break the wires I left the job until I'd picked someone else's
brains. Just in case it was soldered to the bulb holder !!!!!! .Any tip would be
appreciated.
Bob Dodds
Q
I’ve been riding my 1986 Yamaha Virago XV1100S for about 4 months now and
notice the red light problem and now I am kind of feeling better that it may be
a design flaw and that the sending unit may need to be cleaned every time the
oil is changed.
Question I have is how easy would it be to add an oil pressure gauge so I could
see that the pump is actually working well and delivering sufficient pressure?
I have a friend who is mechanically inclined but I need a schematic that would
help along with the right technical steps to do the job properly.
I notice that if I allow the bike to warm up I don’t get the oil level light
flickering but it does flicker at the start if I take off with the bike cold.
Also note that if the bike is running and I tip it too far to the right I can
get the oil light to come on.
After being on the road for awhile and at higher rpm the oil level light has
never come on during that time even on steep cornering. Seems odd that the light
won’t come on while cornering but will if I just tip it to the right side etc.
while stationary.
I check my oil level all the time and it is right up and the bike does not
appear to be using oil with only 31,000 original KM on it. It was a great find.
Love the bike.
A
I realize now that this is not a serious problem and the oil level in the sump changes as the bike is tilted from side to side or goes up hill. After the oil warms up the light goes off and is not a problem.
Q
Hi. I have a Yamaha XV1700 Roadstar Midnightstar Silverado and on the transfer oil filler plug is a grove to remove it when you change the oil. Can anyone help me to what sort of tool that i require thanks Colin
Please email colinclaark123@btinternet.com
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the webmaster
Q Can anyone help?? I tried to change the headlight bulb on my XV1100.. thought it was the 2 screws on the headlamp rim needed taking out.. wrong! I undid them & 2 springs & a kind of spring clip fell out. I now assume it's the single screw to the left of the lamp (as you face it) I should have taken out... but how do I get it back together again?? I can see where the springs go, but can't get them back in, but I don't know where the clip goes. Alan
A
There are two removal screws in the lamp reflector at about 4 and 8 o’clock positions. Once you have the lamp surround out you should be able to work out that the spring goes onto the long screw which then passes through a bracket and nylon nut. The two screws are then holding the lamp unit within the surround and the clip is used to finally secure it on the opposite side. This allows the lamp unit to move both vertically and horizontally within the surround to adjust the beam position.
Alan Johnson (AJ) C14 Rep.
Q
I need to take off my rear tire. It is a 1985 Virago 1000. shaft drive. I would love to know how and any tips I need to do this job. Heck, all I need to do is put on a new tire but here in Orlando, Fla. they won't work on a bike that is over 10 years old. This place sucks as bike repair. Oh well, if you can help I would be thankful.
Kevin at kgardei@embarqmail.com
and
the webmaster
Q Hi, Can any body help with this question. I have XV750 (96/97) with wired spoked wheels, I would like to replace with alloys. Will alloyed wheels from an XV1100 fit without too much trouble? Regards William Hinder of Yeovil No. 5606.
A
I’m advised that the alloy wheels from the XV1100 are a straight fit onto the XV750 after 1994 (UK) with the caveat that the front brakes are different on some models so check the dimensions very carefully around that area.
Alan Johnson (AJ) C14 Rep.
Q Hello. I need to replace the rear tire on my xv 750 virago1987,my question is how difficult it is if I want to replace the tire my self? I do have compressor and some tools to do the job but is it difficult to remove the wheel from the motorcycle? The size is 140/90/15.Thanks in advance, Tony
A
Tony, It’s certainly possible to change the tyre yourself but bearing in mind the performance of modern bikes and the safety aspects involved I wouldn’t recommend it unless you REALLY know what you are doing. There are also balancing issues. I buy my tyres direct and take the wheel and new tyre into a local shop to fit them, they charge me around £5 including balancing.
To remove the real wheel. Support the bike securely, unless you like lying down with it on top of you, detach the link from the brake panel and the brake rod and move them out of the way, remove the cotter pin from the axle nut and remove the nut and washer, loose the axle pinch bolt, support the wheel and remove the axle and washer, pull the wheel to the right, it will come honestly but it’s sometimes reluctant, remember to ensure the bike is secure, this should free it from the drive assembly. Reassembly is a straight reversal but carefully check and clean all components before reusing and ALWAYS use a new cotter pin. Torque for the axle nut is 105Nm.
Alan Johnson (AJ) C14 Rep.
Q
Jet Kits for XV535. I’m sure someone out there will have done this. I want to put straight through pipes on my XV535 DX Model Year 2000. I believe that I will need to re-jet it. The problem I have is that I can only find jet kits up to model year 98. I’m not sure what has changed between models but…
a) Would the 98 model year kit be okay to use?
b) Does this kind of thing cause any damage to the engine?
c) Are they easy to fit?
Any advice from anyone who has done this is much appreciated.
Please email derren.benton@barclays.com
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the webmaster
Q Hi, I am thinking of buying a XV 750 but have restricted access to garden and Garage (28" doorway). I read that the width is 33" but guess that this the handle bar width, which means I should be able to get the bars through but I am worried over the width of the rear indicators and front footrests. Do you have the width of these two items as they seem to be the widest point in the pics after the handlebars.
A
Hi. I have just measured the wife's 750 and it is as follows:
Rear indicators outside to outside - 21.5". Across handlebars - 30"
Footrests - I could not get a straight measurement but even going around the footrest hangers and bottom of the engine it only measured 28" so take an inch or two off.
Q Does anyone know if a 1983 Virago 920 can be towed at high speed (65 mph) behind a car on the rear wheel? I am looking at a motorcycle hauler that picks up the front wheel. Will it damage the tranny??
A Are you mad? You are not allowed by law to tow anything at that speed.. tosh c12
A
Tosh is absolutely right, the best you could hope for is to be stopped by the Police.
For the record, in case you thought of towing at a more reasonable pace, you would most like wreck the transmission. All the oil would be pushed to the back of the axle leaving the gears at the front nice and dry.
All drive shaft drive bikes should only be towed with both wheels off the floor.
Alan Johnson (AJ) C14 Rep.
Q
Hi. I have a Yamaha Virago 550 (1998) making a rattling noise. Checked chains, clutch rubbers, can't find the problem. Done 12,000 miles. My mate said put a cut exhaust on, to drown rattle! Anyone got a cut exhaust or an idea what problem is? Cheers.
Please email tony@eng1and.com
and the webmaster
A
Tony. If the rattle is coming from the top end of the engine, check the valve clearances for excessive play. If the rattle still persists, reset the camchain
tensioners. I suffered a top end rattle for a week, despite setting the valve clearances correctly. resetting the camchain tensioners cured my problem.
Cheers, Simon
Q (cont)
. Hi Simon, I forgot to ask, did your bike sound like piston tapping at the top end? Mine sounds like this. Yamaha told me at 12k, the chains should be ok, my mate took the full plugs out on the tensioners to see if they were stuck, the tappets were a bit loose, but this has all been done and it's still noisy. When I put the bike in gear, then let the clutch out, the rattle gets worse. I thought it might be the clutch, at the end of the day, it still sounds like high front piston rattle, any idea?
Thanks, Tony!
Q
I recently bought an XV 535. It has a fuel tap mounted on the bottom of the Lower fuel tank. This is not mentioned anywhere in the hand book! It is shown in the Haynes manual as a schematic diagram, but nothing further is mentioned about it. It has a cable (pair) connected to it. When I turn the tap to the off position fuel leaks from it! Does anyone know any more about this device ?
Thanks, John Centre 13.
A
Yes, The manual fuel tap is between bottom tank and the electronic reserve solenoid which is controlled from the right hand handle bar switches. When you operate the switch you should be able to hear the solenoid click. The manual tap can be refurbished using a tap repair kit and is an easy job. Cost approx. £13.00 inc. postage from me if you want one. No need to remove the tank:-
Remove the seats and clamp the rubber hoses from the top tank to the lower tank. Make a funnel which can reach under the manual tap and remove the 2 screws holding the front cover. Ease the tap to allow fuel to drain from the tap into your funnel and (hopefully) a bucket etc.
When the fuel has stopped, pull out the tap assembly completely, clean and replace the 'O' ring seal. Ease the tap assembly back into place and replace the 2 screw. Your leak should now be cured.
If you need to replace the electronic solenoid, the bottom tank will have to come out and Haynes shows how to do this.
(In my case I actually took the tank out and completely dismantled the fuel tap and solenoid Assy. It was just seized up with dirt/rust etc. Complete clean and lubricate and then all Worked fine! no parts needed.)
Q Hi. I have a techy question regarding XV750 restriction that I couldn’t find an answer to on the FAQ section of your website. I have acquired a lovely condition 1985 Virago XV750. My intention is to pass my full test on my little 125cc chicken-chaser, as when I tried to do the test on an ER5, I had major problems ‘Progressing’ – not a prob on my little 125 though… The obvious answer for me was to get the Virago restricted for 2 years.
I am told by a very reliable bike mechanic near me that there are only kits available for 1995+ models, and that they cannot get the paperwork for the restriction to make it legal.
Have any of your members come across this problem before perhaps? And if so, is there a solution? The bike has a great deal of sentimental value to me and don’t wish to change it. Don’t want it sat rusting for 2 years either…
Many, many thanks, and looking forward (assuming this setback can be resolved) to become one of your elite very soon…
A
Q Hi I am wanting to fit a restrictor kit onto my virago 535, I have been offered a restrictor kit out of a 750, and told that they are all the same, does anybody know if this is right? will it fit my 535? etc, Or is there anybody out there who knows were I can get a restrictor kit from without having to pay garage prices, HELP!!! Thanks Sandra
Email sad.baza@ntlworld.com
and the webmaster
Q Hi, hope somebody can help me out here...sorry for the long email but I thought
I'd give as much info as I can.
I am basically looking for some information regarding restriction kits for the XV535.
To cut a long story short, we bought the bike from a dealer last year and had it serviced by another dealer earlier this year. Turns out that the frame is twisted...badly, and the bike is out of warranty so we have no backup from the original dealer...who'll no doubt say it was fine when he sold it etc, so we are in the process of fitting all the old parts on to a new frame.
The fact that we were sold a bike with a twisted frame, complete with MOT !!! has made me suspicious about whether or not they have fitted the restriction kit properly....wouldn't surprise me if they hadn't as the MOT was obviously not done properly.
So the crux of my question is, what does the kit actually consist of ??
Having removed the exhaust today, I can see that there is a large insert in the front downpipe to give it a smaller bore, but there isn't one in the rear
downpipe.
I assumed both pipes would have been fitted with an insert so that they had the same bore, if only to balance the engine.
That said, the rear downpipe has a smaller bore than the front anyway, but a larger bore than that of the insert fitted in the front pipe......is this correct?
The section of down pipe from the rear cylinder, between the head and the collector box appears to be slightly cleaner/newer than the rest of the exhaust, which could just be coincidence, but i was wondering if the kit consisted of an insert for the front and a smaller bore section of pipe for the rear?
If this was the case I would have expected to have been given the section of old pipe when we bought the bike though, so it's probably coincidence that it appears newer/cleaner ?
We have a FIC restriction certificate and all that says on it is:
Restriction Device: Exhaust Restriction
Device Code 05-2YL-K25
Device Details And Dimensions
Outer Diameter 1 = To Fit Exhaust
Outer Diameter 2 = To Fit Exhaust
Inner Diameter = 16.5mm
And that's all it says. The way i read it, it seems to be suggesting that 2 exhaust inserts should have been fitted.
So to sum up, the front pipe has an insert and the rear doesn't. The front pipe has a larger standard bore than the rear, but the bore in the front is now smaller than that of the rear due to the insert being fitted.
Hope that all made sense. Please help if you can, any advice welcome. Thanks, Dave
A Hi Dave, I just bought a 535 which also has an FI certificate. This raises many issues which I was not aware of at first! Whilst I had the certificate, it is supposed to show the current owner or riders name on it (they FI say!). FI say you must have it checked by a Yamaha Dealer to confirm it is still there (if on 33bhp like me) They say you or the Dealer must then forward this information to them and they will issue a new certificate and charge you £25 for the Privilege ! So I took it to my local Dealer is has a good reputation. They took the bike in the workshop and told me “Yes, it is restricted” !
Question, how do they know this? The guy explained that there is a restricting plate or washer I guess in the air intake to the carbs ! S0, I got them to sign and stamp a letter I had prepared to confirm this, which they were quite happy to do.
So there are two interesting points here, 1, did I see this device = No ! , 2, and then why should I have to tell anyone else when they have
confirmed in writing that the bike IS restricted against my name. As I assume this is what would be required by Law, that’s it as far as I can see.
Perhaps there are some Legal people among our membership who can confirm this for all of us.
Strange thing is, that a guy at the club said his 535 was restricted within the exhaust system, so this is all very confusing.
Regards, John.
A Hi I have just read the thread about restriction of a 535 I can't really answer it other than to say that my restrictors consisted of two identical washers.
Something that may be of interest to other bikers though that need to have their bike restricted to enable them to ride it on their licence is, check with your insurance company before spending out loads of money on having restrictors fitted at a garage, I was quoted £200 to have my Virago 535 restricted so I contacted my insurance company Ebike and they said as long as I had proof that the output of my bike did not exceed the 33bhp allowed on my licence they didn't mind who or how I had it done as long as I could prove the BHP. To this end I then emailed most of the VSOC centre reps to ask if any of their club members had taken out restrictors and would be willing to sell them on. I had several replies and bought mine from JT from the Yorkies, then had a friend from my centre fit them for me and had a Dyno reading done on the bike to prove the BHP so for saving of £130 I now have an
insurance legal 535 on the road.
Regards, Susan (Dippydora - Centre 8)
Q I have a J reg Virago 750 which leaks petrol into the sump. It runs well and does not burn oil. Any suggestions how I can stop this?
A
I had this problem on my 125.
Eventually the problem was traced to the fuel pump, which it doesn't really need unless you run the tank right down.
The fuel pump wasn't shutting off when the bike was tuned off, which meant when it was stood for a couple of days the sump would be full of petrol. This was discovered by attaching a tube with a stopper to the out bit of the pump and
leaving the bike overnight, by the morning it was full of petrol. My pump has now been by passed and it has worked ok for the last year or so.
Hope this may help
Joanne
A The spring in the petrol tap corrodes and lets petrol get past. Eventually it gets past the needle valves in the carbs and floods them, petrol then flows down the bore into the sump. To check this is easy. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the tank - it should self seal. A vacuum pipe off the engine keeps it open and shuts when the engine is turned off. (XVTRALERMAN)
Q
. I wonder if anyone has had this problem before? I own a 1999 Virago 1100 with only 2200kms on the speedo. The other day I ran out of gas without the fuel light warning me. I tried the handle reserve switch but it did not work. I cleaned the switch, emptied the tank and ride til it ran out of gas and again no warning light coming on. Weird, as two months ago it was working fine. I cleaned most gas components including the gas filter. Can any Virago owner tell me if they have experienced this problem before? Is there any sensor elsewhere since this is the only motorcycle I know that has an electrical reserve switch v/s the normal manual one? Thank you, Mario.
Please email mario318@sympatico.ca and the webmaster
Q Hi I have a Virago 535 1995 model, I have not long passed my test and got a shock after the bike started slowing down and spluttering (yes I ran out of petrol). I turned the petrol reserve on and tried to start it, only to discover either the reserve did not work or it clicked in automatically without letting me know. If it clicked in automatically is this normal, because I can not see the point of having a reserve if this is the case? I am wondering if this has happened to other virago owners, or could it be the reserve switch broken?
A
I am not sure how long ago you posted this, but I am having the same problem with my Virago. After removing the fuel cock assembly from the underside of the lower gas tank (above swingarm), I found that a part was missing. On the fuel cock there is small tube that sticks up. This tube is the “main” fuel draw pipe. In theory, when you switch to the reserve, there is another hole in the fuel cock assembly next to the main pipe that will draw fuel. The main fuel pipe is elevated so that you can empty the fuel tank to the top of the main draw pipe. Once you flip to reserve, you are drawing fuel from top of the main fuel pipe down to the bottom of the tank. I have attached a parts catalog and a print of the specific page of the parts catalog that shows the fuel cock assembly. I am going to take my tank out of the virago tonight to try and shake it to get the main fuel pipe out. I think it just fell off the fuel cock assembly, so the fuel is being drawn to the bottom of the tank no matter what position my switch is in. I did check on the price for the fuel cock assembly and it is $220 US dollars! Hopefully, I can fix it on my own. I hope this helps, and good riding to you.
Brian Giller (Illinois, United States of America)
1997
Virago Parts Catalogue (2MB .pdf file) and Virago
Fuel system parts catalogue (130Kb .jpg file)
A
. I had exactly the same problem and found it was indeed the reserve switch. (Although with mine it was back to front, Res was normal and normal was reserve). I think that the switch had broken so the previous owner changed it over so it was on permanent reserve.. Bloody nuisance or what!! Anyway, a quick visit to EBay and got a new handlebar switch for a tenner, problem solved.
Hope this helps.
A
. I
had the same type of problem. You have to remove tap and take off rear cover, then give the plunger a good clean then grease everything up put it back together.
Now when you flick to reserve there's no mistaking the tap switching over (loud clunk),
the initial prob seems to start either because of jet washing or wet weather spray onto tap which is assembled dry,
I did as above and had no further trouble my mileage per year was an average 60,000
A
. I've had a 535 for 14 years now and ran out of fuel regularly in the early days. The problem is generaly not with the switch on the handle bars but with the solenoid valve fitted below the fuel tank. Because of its location low down it gets attacked by all the road grime and seizes up, thus not moving to the reserve position. Unfortunately it's a messy job to get at it. Haynes manuals recommend removing the tank via the side of the bike but I was advised by a Yamaha mechanic at one of our rallies that it is easier to remove the rear wheel and lower the swing arm to get at the valve. This does unfortunately mean that, when you get the valve off the tank, you spill all that reserve fuel on the floor. I've done this twice now with the same valve over the years but it's now failed
again and looks in bad condition. I've got inyo the practice of filling up every 70 miles now, just in case!
I reckon this is one of the bad points of a 535.
TIP.
With regards to the replacement of the reserve solenoid switch fitted to the base of the lower fuel tank on my 98 535
Virago. I had occasion to replace it a couple of weeks ago & according to my Haynes manual it was going to be a massive job. After following the instructions to the letter I got to the last thing & that was to remove the lower fuel tank, for some reason it just would not come out as if something amongst the mass of electrical wireing was stopping it.
Now after 2 hours I was about to give up on it. It was just too narrow a gap underneath it to get my hand under & take the solenoid off that way leaving the tank in
situ. After thinking about it I put the 2 top tank fixing screw back in without the thick rubber washers on & this pulled the tank up just a little higher enabling me to get a hand under it with a short Philips stub driver in a small ratchet to undo the solenoid. I managed to fit the new one the same way.
It seems that as long as you don't have hands like shovels it's possible to replace this item simply by disconnecting the wiring to it, take off the side cover & frame section, clamp the 2 fuel pipes, unscrew the 2 top tank holding screws & replace them without the rubber washers to draw the tank up 1/4" thus being able to get a hand under. Job done in a fraction of the time. It's just not necessary to half strip the bike down every time a job needs to be done as suggested in the manual.
Bikerman
Q . I ride a XV1100SE with 10k on the clock. Only recently bought bike. It is a 1999 model, my problem is this: when closing down the revs I am hearing a whine that seems to be coming from the drive shaft. As long as the throttle is on turn, no noise, only when coasting in gear. If I depress the clutch, the noise goes away. Can any one help.
A
. Hi. Your question regarding the noise on your Virago... Unfortunately, the low mileage bike (average 1K per year) hasn't done you any favours! The problem is likely to be a dry bearing in the front shaft end in the gearbox. The reason this occurs is due to the lack of use or running of the bike regularly and I suspect the bike had sat a while without use. The cost of the strip down will be substantial if done by a bike shop mechanic due to the oil, gaskets , bearing and mostly labour.
The bike runs great on acceleration and whines when you shut off only. Low mileage "bargains" are not always what they seem!
Q . I have a XVS1100 with 10k on the clock, when the engine is hot and you slow from a cruising speed to 30-50mph there is an odd sound comes from the front of the engine it is not affected by pulling in the clutch, or weather it is in neutral or in gear, a quick jab on the starter button or revving the motor, and will appear when you are stopped and disappear just as quickly sometimes with a flick on the gas, has any body come across this to give me some clue before I start stripping down.
A
. I had a similar problem with my Dragstar XVS 1100A at about 8000 miles with a noise coming from the engine noticeable at low revs. I found that the starter solenoid was stuck and the starter was still turning. By hitting the starter button or revving the engine to cause vibration may be releasing such a problem. If it does stick and you do not notice, it will overload the battery and at night will flatten after 30 - 40 miles. The starter clutch allows the engine to go faster than the starter, bit even though it all runs in oil the starter clutch will wear.
A stuck starter solenoid is most obvious when you switch the engine off and it continues to turn over on the starter. A replacement solenoid is about £40.
Hope that this helps. Regards, Neil (Sting) Centre 8.
Q
. Hi all. I have Virago 1000cc 1984 which I bought for $2500.00. I have since spent heaps on re-chroming. It has done some 94000 k's and after riding for some k's has developed a timing chain noise. Can anyone tell me the steps on how to adjust the tensioners.
Please email Ken on hardyfamily57@optusnet.com.au and the webmaster
Q
. I've got a 1990 XV1100.. bog standard, great condition BUT the engine is knocking like the big ends have gone... Is there an inherent weakness in the bottom end or main bearings?
Please email eric@realbiker666.fsnet.co.uk and the webmaster
TIP . The owner of a 535 Virago (1998) complained that the engine intermittently fired on one cylinder. After much fault finding, I eventually found that the wires from the loom - just before they go to the coils - pass over a thin bracket. The bracket acts as a guide for the wires, but the bracket had rubbed away the insulation. This allowed the ‘make a spark’ signal to be shorted to ground. A piece of heat shrink sleeving over the worn through insulation fixed the problem.
Whilst poking around, I also found the connector to the coils to be almost completely corroded. (Bear in mind this is at the front of the bike, so road muck gets blasted to this area by the front wheel. A little plastic cover prevents some of the ‘blast’ but not much. In addition, the plastic cover stops anyone washing the area to remove any road salt.) I had to remove the original connectors and solder on new ones. Cleaned the (coil) spade terminals with emery paper and washed them with alcohol. Reconnected everything, and the engine ran without any problems. In an attempt to stop further corrosion, I sprayed the coil connector area with Waxoyl.
Hope this helps. Regards - Andrew Gadd
Q
. Yes I have a problem I have a 1986 Virago 650 and I am trying to figure out a problem. My front spark plug is always clean but my back spark plug is always sooted up, must clean it up every few days. Does anyone have a knowledge in this matter
Email any answers to Aaron McArthur on asmcarthur@cmhakootenays.org and the webmaster
Q . Having just pushed my 97 XVS650 Dragstar home on the night of Sunday19/12/04 due to a strange phenomenon never before encountered. At about 22.45 travelling at 50mph thru the road works on the M42 my bike started to sound and feel like it was running on one cylinder or just lost compression on one cylinder. It finally died at section with no cones so I sat for 5mins and fired it over low and behold it ran as smooth as ever so I continued home 300yds further down the road the same again so I shut down and pushed. When I got home I gave the bike the once over it look for oil spray (Head gaskets and the like) but nothing I've heard of carb icing but this seemed ridiculous as carb icing can happen in summer. Or was it just Ice in general was the Hypercharger putting two much cold air into the engine and causing the carbs to freeze or just the wind blast in general freezing the fuel in the lines and or carbs? (fuel still liquid in tank). Has any one suffered similar during winter it was approx 4 below freezing not including wind chill. I will update once I've checked the bike in the morning.
A .I have got to the route of the issue I think/hope. Having stripped the carbs and confirmed the heaters are working and the coils firing correctly I cleaned all the connections on regulator/rectifier as the bike was still running as rough as nails at low rpm (higher rpm no probs). So I was left no choice but to speak to a mechanic who suggested the leads or plugs. Now having only recently put two brand new iridium plugs in the bike I did not think this was the problem but guess what - it was one of the plugs had stopped firing at low rpm (i.e. at tickover no spark) but at high load when the coils are firing harder lots of spark but very weak. Put the old iridium plugs back in and bingo lots of spark and more power! I will be keeping a very watch full eye on this as the plugs are £10 each. As for the coils and ignition this is due to change in the new year to Dyna adjustable ignition and better coils. Regards Rob Jones (Centre 8)
The problem has reoccurred 17/01/05 almost a month to date the bike spluttered to a halt on the m42 again this time it seem to most definitely be something getting hot as after stopping the bike carried on fine. I will be getting the Coils looked at ASAP and having checked the lead on the rear cylinder it looks quite heavily heated (blistering around plug hole) so will be changing these as well.
Any info if any one else has suffered this will be gratefully accepted.
Regards Rob Jones 5212 (Centre 8)
The problem is back with a vengeance having changed the plugs for something a bit hotter DRP9 instead of DRP7 on 18/01/05 the problem happened 30 miles into a ride and 15 mins later was gone. My Father who is a mechanic has come to the conclusion this is nothing electrical (Coil, leads, reg, ign or plugs). It only happens when the bike gets hot, very hot to the extent the rear cylinder head chrome trim is Blistering!. The rear cylinder is suffering from either major oil starvation or has picked up and not running square and is ceasing in the barrel, he came to this conclusion as his own bike suffered this problem. Ride bike at constant 70-75 for about 30miles gets it hot to the point the rear cylinder seems to cease, leave 15mins to cool and whoooo hoooo away you go as if nothing ever happened. Only a full strip will show the extent of any damage so will update this listing when I have more info. Regards Rob Jones (Centre 8) 5212 (p.s. bike is running bigger jets and V&H Cruzer pipes and a Hypercharger.
The over heating problem seems to have been narrowed down by our friends across the pond were they tend not to use the Hypercharger. A Dragstar specialist parts manufacture has possibly nailed the problem to the jetting and the speeds travelled. The Hypercharger is extremely difficult to set up even on a dyno as no air flow higher up the revs as bike is static on the dyno, as the bike is moving at 70+mph the fuel air mixture is way way to lean due to the ram air effect of the Hypercharger this in turn is causing the overheating possibly to the extent it is cracking the oil and causing the seizure which is why when it cools down it carries on ok as I usually keep the speed down to around 50mph no leaning out at this speed as the mains and pilots work together.
Finally I hope to have this solved only a run to work will see. I have stripped down the fuelling system completely and have balanced the carbs yet again and have reset the fuel air ratio. We found that on a gas analysis that it was just over 1 when idling when it needed to be between 3 and 4. Have now adjusted this and sorry to all of you using Hyperchargers I forgot to count the number of turns on the mixture screw, but it is at least 4 times as much as listed in the instructions, the bike is now running smoother no flat spots and the over run sounds better not so much popping. Will keep you posted in case it reoccurs.
Ride safe Rob Centre 8
God dammit if the if that pile ** $%^& that Yamaha calls a bike has not only gone and stranded me yet again and these things are supposed to be reliable! (sorry rant over) my xvs650 has yet again come to a grinding halt only this time it failed to do anything but look good sat at the side of the road.
Frustrated that everything I have done has not resolved the issue of the rough running and cutting out I rang my local dealer who proceeded to advise that the main culprit or culprits depending on which way you look at it was the COILS he carried on to tell me that on certain bikes not all (XVS 650/1100 and the Fazer and occasionally the R6) the most recent being a 6month old Fazer that the coils have an intermittent fault that causes them to go from 3ohm draw to a 5ohm+ draw causing the problem with the over heating and the coming to a stop as it throws the digital ignition out of sync which would explain why the timing was way out at tick over when recently retuning the bike as the ignition is working way to hard to spark.
I was advised that changing the coils would solve the problem I then asked if they could check them on their coil tester and the answer was NO we know the coils are a problem and if we get bikes with the syptoms you have described we do not test we just replace them the cost £116+ vat.
I have now ordered the aftermarket Items by DYNA £94 + vat for the coils and the DYNA 3000 ignition system to replace the possibly now spannered original as I have covered close to 1200 mile with the bike running rough/cutting out.
It is now sat waiting for the replacement parts as charging the battery will only allow 35miles of riding before going flat as the draw is much greater than the charging system can cope with, which is running at flat out at around 14.5.
( 14/02/05) Hopefully this will be the last installment of rough running from me. As you know I have listed an essay of problems since Dec 04' I finally fitted the new coils and ignition a couple of days ago and this amplified the problem to such extent that I could not even get the bike off the drive before the misfire cutting out became a prob.
I have gone through every item of electrics, relays, wires and cleaned and greased all parts, I started at the back of the bike and worked forward and when I got to the reg/rec which on my bike has a custom cover over it (home made) which I though would protect it as it it's right in the firing line of the crud off the front wheel, only to find the connector fell to bits and was green and furry Argghhhh more expense was this the original culprit or is just another item to add to the list.
I hope fingers/toes everything crossed that this will finally solve the problem if not I think I will get rid and buy a different model may be a Wildstar, yes I think that's good idea! Now where have I left that copy of bike trader..?
Final Answer ?
I never solved the issue with the bike and neither could the local Yammie stealership or mechanic. I have recently sold it on as a non runner due to the fault, the buyer has advised he managed to get it running eventually by changing the carbs/manifolds and refitting
original pipes from his other bike but he noticed that the rear cylinder is still overheating and spluttering occasionally so in theory it still has not been fixed
permanently.
I now own a 05' Vstar 1100 (warranties and all that) as i cannot be without a star as they ride and look so good. Fitted with Baron slasher slip ons (no re jet req) and shaft cover Dealer is ok and will still warranty the bike with the pipes.
I was sorry to see the bike go but I had lost faith in it and a member of center 8 has nearly new bike Vstar 650 which is now starting to show the syptoms and the dealer cannot pin point the problem.
Is this the achilles heel of the 650? If it is, all the forums suggest a lack of maintenance blocking the oil galleries and causing starvation, due to the oil filter being a sod to replace due to the monkey metal casings. The previous owner to myself who we still drink with has finally admitted he never changed the oil in all the years he owned it (no maintenance), were as I
religiously changed filter/plugs/ oil every 3.5K and as such had a relocator on order so as not to keep stripping threads. (got one on order for the 1100 even though the dealer will be sorting for two years and the interval is now 6K)
Rob
Regards Rob Centre 8
Q
. I have just purchased a 1994 XV1100 and find that it has a nasty sound of a knock coming from beneath the fuel tank every time I hit a bump. I don't think it's the front shocks and you cannot reproduce the problem by standing still and bouncing the front shocks. I thought it may be tank rubbers but they are in tact and there is nothing loose under the tank.
Email any answers to Edmond.David@motorola.com and the webmaster
Q
. I have a similar noise coming from the same area . I had the fork oil changed and thought maybe they used a different oil or added too much. I drained a small amount out and it seemed to lessen the noise but if I go over a fairly large bump it is still there. It wasn't there before I had the fork oil changed . What do you think is causing this? Ken...
Email any answers to kenmcgrath@sympatico.ca and the webmaster
Q
. I have a 2000 Vstar 1100, runs great but when I shut engine off it makes a very loud clunk almost as if the starter is trying to engage while engine is running. Any ideas what is causing this?
Please email o.onetoowise@verizon.net and the webmaster
Q Has anyone out there fitted a tacho gauge to the XVS 650 or similar. I am interested in fitting one of the commercially available small 44mm tacho's to my bike but not sure whether to fit an electric or mechanical (if there is a drive for it). Any info appreciated.
A
I fitted a tacho to my XV535. I used an electronic tacho and mounted it by fitting the bracket under the handle-bar riser.
I fitted it partly to help diagnose bad running. It’s not 100%, as vibration or electrical noise means that the needle wobbles violently at around 6-7000rpm (this might be due to a duff voltage regulator, see below). Also I’ve never seen anyone quote a maximum rpm for this engine. It’s going to be between 8-9000 rpm.
The cable was just long enough to reach into the right side pod where the ignition unit is mounted, and I fitted a water-proof plug, then wire tails soldered into the loom. Most connections can be picked up from the voltage regulator plug, but the illumination had to run from the instrument lights.
Recently I have replaced the voltage regulator, too. The new Electrex RR48 unit does not fit where the original was, so I positioned it on top of the air-box (under the top fuel tank). There is just enough space, and the airflow feeding the engine should help to cool the regulator. After checking the clearance under the tank I drilled 2 holes in the top face, about 8-inches behind the air cleaner element (mind you don’t get swarf in the carbs, though!!). Then I put M6 bolts projecting up, secured them with plain nuts and lock washers, and fitted the regulator with more nuts and washers to suit. This means you don’t have to go into the air-box to remove the regulator, and the lower nuts space the regulator clear of the welded ridge along the spine of the air-box.
Wildstar Internal Engine Noise
Q . I've just bought a 2003 1600 Wildstar with about 1000 miles on the clock. At about 1600 miles, it's started making a mild grinding or loud whirring noise at low speeds in 1st and 2nd gear, just after moving off, usually with the clutch fully home, and this can be 'felt' through the bars. If you shut the throttle quickly it also causes the noise for a few seconds, again at low speeds. The noise is easily heard above the engine and exhaust. Same noise can be induced by intentionally letting the engine labour when it seems to synch with the engine stroke.The dealer I purchased from is 200 miles away and my local dealer, although helpful, has almost no experience of Wildstars, like me, to date. The only thing found was a slack drive belt otherwise all seems ok. Other than this, the bike is fine. Can anyone throw any light on this problem or is it a case of 'they all can do this'? Local dealer is happy to look at matters under warranty, if needed, but neither he or I know if there is a problem. HELP!!
A
. I am also the "proud" owner of a wildstar for 4 years and 30,000 miles. Does the noise you refer to happen if you open the throttle when riding the bike and then close it quickly ?. This normally results in a screeching noise, like a clutch problem. If so then its the drive belt tension. I've had this a few times and re-tensioning the belt fixes it. There is also information on a German site about problems with the cam shaft sprockets but they state that this is on 99 & 2000 bikes only and Yamaha are aware.
Ride safe, Steve
Q
. I've got a Wildstar 2000 modal from new 17500miles it now has started to make the same noise in the clutch but when its under load in all gears but when in top at about 60ish it goes if u pull de clutch in when accelerating or at lower speeds it will go as soon as u let de clutch out its back have had clutch spring and pressure plate changed the was some wear on de plates put as its not slipping they were never changed the noise is not as bad but still their when under load any ideas as needed t be sorted as its driving us nuts and the bike shop run out of ideas as well
Please email stevenbrady1@tinyworld.co.uk and the webmaster
I've been receiving a lot of requests recently regarding wiring of the wildstar for choppers, switches, inside the bar wiring etc. Now this is the best place to get the pictures and the key as you can download them without filling up your email box. Be warned, they are large files, but well worth it when you don't know what the heck is going on.
The files are for the United Kingdom/European (1999) version of the XV1600A Wildstar, but they should help you out for most of the other models.
(Tip - Right Click on your mouse and select "Save Target As..." and download directly to your computer for future reference)
Wiring Diagram Page 1 (JPEG Image 1.3MB)
Wiring Diagram Page 2 (JPEG Image 1.9MB)
Wiring Key (pdf file)
Regards Nick Lappage.
Q . Hi, I have an XV1100 Virago (1990 G reg) and a Dragstar XVS1100 (02 reg). I bought the Dragstar as I expected it to be a nice upgrade to the Virago but I find that the Dragstar is a lot slower. I know the Dragstar is heavier but I expected it to be nearly as fast as the Virago but it is not. The Virago can accelerate a good deal faster and has a higher top end speed than the Dragstar. Do you know what Yamaha has changed between the two motors to make such a marked difference? I hope you can help. Yours, Barry (p.s. I still have lots of fun on the Virago)
A . I part ex'd my Virago 1000 E reg for a 1100 Dragstar I don't think my Dragstar is much slower maybe its geared differently. I know the Dragstar has some sort of rev limiter ( nice to know where to get rid of it) that if I try and cane it though the gears the engine tends to start spluttering just before you would normally change gear maybe that's something to do with it . I'm getting a Hypercharger fitted within the next couple of weeks and I will see if it makes a difference But I must admit I did expect a lot more it doesn't handle quite so well as the virago ,maybe its the rear mono shock. My trouble is what I really want is the performance of a sports bike but the look of a cruiser - suppose can't have both but can always hope . Regards Paul.
A
. I upgraded from an XVS650 to my 1100 VStar. Now I do not know about the performance of the 1100 Virago having never ridden one. I would suggest the Dragstar only feels slower but in reality it is not as I also ride a 650 V-Twin commuter which feels way quicker than my 1100 but it is not, as proved many a time. Even higher up the gears from 70 onwards the 650 stands no chance even if I am two up.
With regards to upping the rev limiter you will need a DYNA 3000 (around £350), it also allows you to revise the ignition curves. I have fitted to mine, a Baron Custom Accessories BAK and jet kit, Baron's Nasty Boy slasher slip ons, Dyna 3000 set at curve 4 and rev limit set at 6750rpm and lowered 2" at the rear. It still looks like a cruiser but the performance, well let's just say the only way I'm going any quicker is to open the motor and fit HC pistons and aggressive cams which is another $1000 as I have to get it from S&S Customs or Pacific Coast Star in the States and then I will have a genuine 96hp at the rear wheel and great big bucket loads of torque - perfect for traffic light grand prix against anything this side of a tweaked 1000cc sports machine. So you can have both but as usual you got to pay for it. (Rob centre 8)
If anyone's interested in the Kuryakyn Hyperchargers ( www.kuryakyn.com/category.asp?bn=metric&cn=Air+Cleaners ), I've just fitted one to my 650 Custom and it makes a noticeable difference to the power - plenty of extra grunt on fast roads! Kuryakyn say it's relatively easy to fit to any cruiser except an XVS650 as they say the necessary re-jetting is quite tricky on that model. I got a local garage to fit it and it did take them a while. One last comment for anyone who sees those lovely US custom cruiser websites with their lovely low prices in nice weak dollars (e.g. my Hypercharger was $199 compared to UK price of £199 - almost half price!): don't forget that your lovely bike parts will arrive with a not-so-lovely bill from those customs and excise people... quite what Value they Added to that transaction is anyone's guess, but they'll still Tax you... Cheers Geoff
I've just fitted a Kuryakyn Hypercharger to my 650 Dragstar Custom with only a few problems. I know that Kuryakyn recommend the thing being fitted by a dealer or qualified technician. Apparently on USA models the mixture screws are covered with a brass cover which has to be drilled to get to them, whilst the European models, which mine is, have lovely, big, easy to adjust nylon screw heads. This might be one of the reasons why Kuryakyn make the recommendation. If you're not sure if yours is a USA or European model, you can just see the screws by shining a into the carb area, behind the air filter. There's a picture of the screws (idle mixture screw) on the ISRA link below.
A few points on fitting: -
1) You can fit the jets without removing the carbs or the tank. Although to fit the Hypercharger you will need to remove the tank.
2) If you remove the airbox, be careful when refitting. The thing sits on a narrow collar on each carb. If you overtighten the clips the box will slip off the collar, and you might not notice. Running the bike like this plays havoc with the mixture . . . . I know.
3) The standard screws on the carb are bloody rubbish, difficult to get to and I can almost guarantee that the heads will end up mashed. I had to remove some with vice grips. I've now replaced the float chamber screws with slotted, pan head and the vacuum chamber covers with Stainless allen heads. This makes it easy to get to the screws which are 4mm threads with a variety of lengths.
4) I made the mistake of changing the needle settings. This messed the mixture up badly. The Kuryakyn instructions don't say to do this . . . . . Like I pay attention to anything :-) The settings are now back to how I found them, which was on slot 3 of 5. I recommend only to touch this as a last resort.
5) Set the mixture screws before fitting the Hypercharger
6) Expect to pull the whole thing apart a couple of times before getting it right
Here's what I did on my bike
The 122.5 main jet
The #35 Pilot jet
Straight pipes with severely chopped down baffles
The needle on slot 3
The mixture screws - screwed in fully, then 1 3/4 turns out
And lastly some useful links.
If you're a total novice, like me, the howstuffworks is short and concise on how carbs work. Worth a read.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/
And, the thing that gave me the confidence to fit the Hypercharger myself.
http://www.star-riders.org/starcruiser/volume1-1/gak.html
Q . Can anyone tell me what battery I need for my Virago 1100? The current battery on is has the code GM18Z-3A, and I've been told no one can find this battery????
A . I have just fitted a battery to my 89 Virago 1100 it's a sprint power max. Y50-N18l-A2 it fits and works a treat!
A
. You can also use YTX24HL-BS or Y50N18LA. The best replacement is a wrapped glass mat gel filled sealed for life battery. They carry around 50% more cold crank power, work better in cold weather and can’t spill. But they do cost a bit more. See:
http://www.speedlinemoto.co.uk/SVR-WestCo-Batteries-mid-2-p-1.html
Alan Johnson (AJ) C14 Rep.
I've just put a request on your site for a few electrical parts, and during my web search came across
www.smallenginestarters.com
who have xv starters - long and short shaft for about $160 US. Thought it might interest all
Virago owners who've had "the clunk".
Q . Hi - My name is Tom Sullivan and I have a 1983 Virago. The problem is that the starter grinds when you go to start it. Can you tell me how to fix the problem or show me what I need to make to fix it
A . The problem is usually the outer idler pinion and its friction clip. It slips and the gear tries to grind its way in. Go to "Starting problems" and my item. My name's Steve Westbury. Also an address for starter motors on another following question. Hope this helps
Q . XV1100: When I hit the starter button, I can hear the solenoid, which pulls a fork assembly to "engage" the starter motor, go off like a rattley machine gun. I've found that if the battery is fully charged, then no problem, but if the battery is 10% below full charge, this "chatter" takes place. Before I go off and buy another new battery, does anyone have a solution to this?
A
. So, Your Starter Is Just Clicking
Does you starter make a *click* sound when you try to start your vehicle?
Each time you turn the ignition switch to start, does the starter just *click* one time?
That is probably the starter solenoid.
If it goes, *click-click-click-click*, and so on, it may just be a low or weak battery.
The voltage test without any load, may indicate the battery is fine, but when you put it under load, like starting, a bad cell (or two) may be the culprit, not allowing all the current (amps) available (upto 230!) to go through all the cells to reach the starter. To test for this, do a voltage check across the battery when you hit the starter....if it drops from say 12.2volts to 10volts, you've got a bad cell.....
go get yourself a new and high quality battery......Yuasa make the best high cranking current batteries.........and don't forget to make sure you are charging your battery ok....the voltage measured at the battery terminals should show your bench charger or bike alternator to be charging the battery at 13.2volts to 14.2volts max.
If the battery is getting a bit old, it may loose it's charge. to test this....charge it up, stop charging, measure the voltage at the battery posts and it should be between 12.2v - 13.2v. Leave it for 2 hours and read again...if it's dropped below 11.8 volts, it's on the way out.
Q . Hi, I have an XV920 and when I push the starter button it sounds like a bag of spanners being thrown on the floor, it starts no problem when it catches. I've heard there is a modification for this problem, does anyone know it please?--------cheers Mick.
Any replies to MSTANSBRIDGE01@aol.com and the webmaster
Hi,
I reported to the VSOC stand at the NEC the Trunk kit modification Re service bulletin M2000-008 and the difficulty that the kit 4XY-TRUNK-CM_KT was not recognised by Yamaha UK. For those who have a bike within the effected chassis range you can get the parts as individual parts as follows:
1 x Damper 4XY-2847N-00 ( rear)
2 X Damper 4XY-2847R-00 (front)
1 X Plate 4XY-2846P-00
1 X Plate 4XY-2846R-00
1 X Rubber plate 4XY-2847T-00
1 X Rubber Plate 4XY-2849J-00
The metal and rubber plates are handed to fit the contours of the trunk base.
Hope this information is of use to any Venture owners that might be concerned regarding the security of the trunk mounting.
Regards
Mike Wickins VSOC 3089
Ride safe
(Previously...)
Whilst working on the VSOC stand at the NEC bike show I was asked if I knew anything about the Venture Star Top Box (or Trunk) coming adrift. Apparently there was some technical bulletin issued but the gentleman couldn't get his local Yamaha dealer in Leicester to understand the problem. Having checked over a few sites and enquiring further, I'm happy to give you all a link to a Venture Star web site that should help all those of you with queries of a technical nature on the Venture Star
The link is... www.venturers.org/NextGenTech/V2tech.html
It seems as though Yamaha UK didn't take too much notice of the modification kit that the USA provided and fitted a new top box under warranty instead. If some of you do have problems with cracking on your trunks, the modification kit costs about £20 and can be got directly from the USA. The Yamaha USA bulletin number is M2000-008 and the part number of the kit is 4XY-TRUNK-CM-KT.
Go to www.venturers.org/NextGenTech/2ndGen/pages/Trunk_kit.html for more information.
Regards, Nick Lappage (webmaster@vsoc.org.uk)
Q
. We just bought a 1984 XV700 with 7k miles on it. We ran it fine for the last 2 days, but got on it today to ride and when we put it into gear it died. It starts and idles fine, but once we put into gear it dies everytime. Any suggestions? It seems to have battery power and all the lights and stuff are working fine, it just clicks and dies when put into first gear. Thanks.
A . It sounds very much like your side stand is down - or at least the side stand switch thinks that it's down. Most bikes are wired that way these days for safety (saves a nasty accident on the first left hand corner...). Try removing the switch and giving it a good clean, check the wiring around that area as well - a wire could have broken off or something like that. Worth a try eh? (Nick Lappage)
A . My 1995 XV535 did exactly the same thing. In the end the problem was with the clutch plates being almost glued together. Once they were freed and cleaned, problem solved. Hope this helps. (Damien)
Q . I have an 02 Dragstar 650 Classic, and today after slowing down whilst leaving the motorway the little darling cut out. Anybody know why or has experienced this problem?
A . Hi, I have also had this problem, every so often the engine just dies, usually when in the fast lane, very frustrating and also lethal. After much swearing I returned my Dragstar to the shop, and it turned out that some water had got into the sidestand switch, shorting it out and telling the bike that the side stand is down therefore cutting the power. All they did was disassemble the switch ,dry it out and pack it with grease, and since then I have had no problem. I hope this helps you. Andy Smith
Q . My 650 Dragstar developed a knocking noise on further investigation I found the three rivets that secure the clutch basket had started to break up. Has any one else had this problem???????
A
. Have just had the same problem with mine - and only found bits of one rivet head! (attached to magnetic drain plug I fitted about a year ago). Also found the clutch 'basket' was notched up the edges - and my bike although a '97 model has barely done 8000 KM!! Gear change was really noisy. Am about to replace the offending parts and hope no more metal is loafing about in the engine. Any comments or insights would be more than welcome. Is this a manufacturing defect and can I claim from Yamaha despite the age of the bike?
Regards Adrian Cherry
Q . Has anyone heard of Implosion of Dragstar 650 petrol tank as mine has had this happen. Any suggestions as to where I could get it repaired or replaced or maybe even self repaired?
A . Yes, I've seen this happen to a friend of mine. There is a vent tube at the front of the fuel tank which has a rubber hose coming from it and routed under the fuel tank. It has been known for this hose to be kinked (e.g. when the fuel tank has been removed and then replaced for service work etc). Then, when the petrol is sucked out of the tank by the fuel pump an internal vacuum builds up. This is normally noticed as a hiss when the petrol cap is taken off. Sometimes the vacuum pressure is so great that the tank will implode. A good preventative cure is to get a replacement petrol cap that has its own ventilation. (Nick)
A . Hi, I have just had this happen on my wildstar. The problem was not the rubber hose but a blockage in the metal vent pipe that the hose attaches to on the tank. Resolved by forcing air down the pipe with a decent power air line. Apparently a common problem as the vent hole is so small that small particles of the dreaded rust from in the tank will block it. A must not do is to try and clear it with a piece of wire. Regards, Steady
Q . I have a 535 and want to fit a set of 10” rise square bars. Does anyone know if they’ll fit without having to change all the cables?
A . Hi DB, I recently fitted 4" risers to my 2002 535, cables etc are on the limit. The maximun safe height risers without modification would be 3". (From Robot)
Q
. I need to adjust the valves on a 1988 virago. How do I do this?
Pease email tbrumbac@fuse.net
and the webmaster
Q
. I have a Virago 535 and have had it for 2 years. It is a '92 model and has done 21000 miles. When it gets warm it has a top end rattle that increases when I rev it or accelerate. I have checked the tappets and all are okay. Advice on what it could be would be appreciated.
Thanks, Nev.
A . My 1100 was the same and when I put it in for service the fitter set the tappets to what Haynes say they should be and it was not much better so he phoned Yamaha and they gave him different settings and now its sweet. Arthur
Q . Hi. I own a 650 Dragstar 02 reg 10,000 on the clock. I purchased the bike new and find that at 65mph it develops a rough vibrating ride. Up to that it's smooth. But now, from 65mph onwards, the bike seems to feel rough and vibrates all over. Is this how they all are or do I need to buy a bigger bike? Andy (Centre 13)
A . I bought mine new last September and its just the same, anything over 60mph and you can feel the vibration through the footrests and the seat. Phil
A . Hi there. Just thought I'd chuck in my penny worth. I have just sold my 650 and moved on up to an 1100 "BUT" I bought my 650 new, it's a 1999 bike and has 19500mls on it and I have never experienced any vibration. It has non std pipes and has been Dyno jetted with a K&N air filter fitted and I must say it has always gone very well. Ride safe, Stu.
A . I have found that from around 60mph to about 70 it gets a bit rough but after this smooths out but is mainly when accelerating hard (I know it's a cruiser honest) I am running a hypercharger, v&h cruzers and 122.5 main jets and 35 pilot jets performance is incredible (around 4.5 to 60 and two up cruising at 80 ) but balancing the carbs with a flow meter made it much smoother but has not got rid of the vibes completely as this is a trait of v-twins. (Rob Jones)
A
. Hi Andrew, I have just assisted a mate of mine with the same problem with his Dragstar. His bike was the same at around 70mph but then got worse. In the end it lost all power. Mileage done around 18k. We got the engine stripped and found a bent con rod for the front cylinder and excessive wear on the crank shaft.
The shell (insert) was worn through right through the brass coating to the base metal underneath. I don't know the extent of your knowledge so excuse me in advance if I'm talking about stuff you know in the following.
The 2 con rods share a space on the crankshaft of about 4-5 cm. on this crank shaft all the wear was to the half used by the front cylinder only.
I had a Dragstar engine in the garage (why is another story) that had also done about 18k. I stripped this one with the idea of giving my mate some of the bits he needed. You can guess where this is going eh ?.
This engine has exactly the same wear issues as the other in the same place on the same cylinder.
Q
. Do Dragstar engines have a life span of 18k ? Has anyone else found anything similar ? steve.steadman@ntlworld.com
A
. 1. They can clock a lot more than that usually.. they're based on the old XV535. There is a train of thought that with the odd few, and it really is the odd few, a lack of oil changes can be a problem. This is cos the filters are a bit of a sod to change without stripping the bolts in the cases that hold the covers on. Aside from that, it's not known to be a problem.
2. Just a thought on this subject but the symptom of one cylinder wearing more then the other may be symptomatic of not synching the carbs properly and one cylinder working harder then the other.
3. Sounds like the bike did a lot of running below the 1150 rpm range, the idle was too low and not getting up to rpm throughout the gears to pump the oil. It sounds great at low rpm but a disaster for the engine.
After getting all the replies from the UK and "across the pond", I think that the most likely possible reasons are the valves not being adjusted as part of the service and keeping the revs to low. (As, purely in my opinion, you would on a cruiser.)
The first was pointed out by a guy from Portugal, the service centres over there didn't do it and I have no recollection of it being done here either to mine until I asked for it to be done.
The second came mainly from the states where it is regarded as a "high" reving bike. The thoughts are that if run at too low revs too often, (approx less than 1500rpm )the oil won't get round enough resulting in too much stress on the cylinder...I'm no expert and it sounds feasible.
All in all I don't think there will ever be a definitive answer to this, just lots of points to bear in mind for the future.
Q . The speedo on my '93 XV535 tells me I'm travelling at 65 when I've been told I'm doing about 75mph. there seems to be an error all the way through and at 75mph I am really travelling at about 90mph (whoops). Does anyone know why it might be doing this and have any solutions without buying a whole new speedo?
Any replies to annie@burrowsannie.fsnet.co.uk and the webmaster
One of the long bolts, which hold the oil filter cover on,
had stripped the threads in the engine block. I couldn't get the bolt to tighten and
had a minor oil leak/weep. After asking on the Wanted pages, please post my thanks to all the VSOC members who responded to my oil leak problem. The advice was that even though the threads seemed stripped, there would be another 5mm of thread in the casing. Indeed there was so, after finding and carefully fitting longer bolts, the problem has been solved.
Geoff (centre 5 #5360)
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If anyone is interested, it is a very easy change to put the later, chromed side stand onto a pre-1994 VX535 virago. The advantages are improved appearance, and much better stability when parked!! The original item left the bike a bit too near to upright, so a strong gust of wind could (and did) push the bike over.
Many thanks, Joe Hatt
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Hi there. Just thought I would add to your list off found faults I have experienced with an XV1100 I have just restored.
Once all back together , started no probs. Took it out for a run to clear the cobwebs. After approx 5 miles it started to hesitate an then died! turned the key off, then on again, pressed the starter away it went allowing me to get home, but cut out again in my driveway. The bike had been standing for two years! so suspected the carbs or a fuel problem although I had given these a once over. Off the carbs came , new jets, float valves etc. cleaned the fuel lines, again, and flushed the tank. Cleared the tank breather, sorted!
All back together, so off I went again, fairly confident I had fixed the problem.
Wrong! This time I managed to go approx 25 miles before it started to hesitate and then died. Turned the key off and then on again, it started no probs.
I managed to get home after another couple of stops and starts just a bit pissed off!!
I then decided to look at the coils by checking the ohms readings again. I had done this once when the bike was stripped and they seemed within limits then. This time however , the rear coil reading had dropped, I had at last found the fault !
New coil now no probs, runs like a dream!
Hope this might save someone time and money , it doesn't take long to check the coils , I would have done that first if I had known!
Cheers, Karl Parker
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I hate to give away my Virago secrets, but here it is... I have a 1984 XV700 and get all my parts from www.greenscycle.com It is a motorcycle graveyard for all make and models of bikes. Every part that you could think of and engines as well. It is located in Millwood, Ky in the USA.
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If you have headlight problems on your Virago XV750
I recently had some electrical probs on my ‘93 XV750; the bike was running well, but the headlight and speedo/tach wouldn’t light up. After testing every wiring harness on the bike, I checked both handlebar switches. After determining that they were working well, I was about to give up when my hand brushed against the start switch... and the headlight and speedo-tach lit up again. After “playing” with the switch for a few minutes, I determined that it was indeed the culprit; it wasn’t returning all the way back sometimes after depressing it.
After taking it apart, cleaning the contacts a bit, spraying a mist of WD-40 in there, and putting it all back together, it works fine. Hopefully, this will save someone else the 2 hours of work and troubleshooting it took me.
I have an 85 Virago XV750 and had sporadic problems with Tach/speedo/headlights going out. Tested every wire and relay in the Headlight and instrument cluster. Many thanks to the solution provided by the owner of the 93 with the same problem. His post info saved at least 5 more hrs of work by 2 people as we were ready to gut and test the entire electrical system. Same problem, solution and result!
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I have installed a relay which cuts off the front headlight when ever the side stand is down. This helps cut down battery drain during starting and also while sitting on stand during warm up. I can provide details if required.
email Edmond.David@motorola.com
Just a thought. I went and bought a set of chrome side panels, (never had trouble with the originals). The new ones seemed to fit ok, but first blast up the road, the right side came off with sods law making sure the car behind ran it over. It might pay anyone who buys them to drill a small hole and attach a cable tie so that if they do go, they don't get squashed!
Ride safe, Paul (Virago 1000)
Q . I was wondering if any body could help me. I have a Dragstar 650 bought new last September. When the bike has cooled down, there is a bad smell of petrol fumes, on my first service I mentioned this. The mechanic agreed there was a smell of petrol but couldn't find where it was coming from. At first I thought maybe it was coming from the petrol cap because it smelt of petrol through the keyhole, does the cap breath through the keyhole. Any ideas please?
A . I have an XVS 650 2004 model and I have always smelt a bad fuel smell as well. No evident leaks either.
A
. Dear Phil, Just reading through the problem page and arrived at your problem about the fuel smell. There is a breather under the tank and this vents under the tank so any petrol vapour will filter into the closed spaces, under the speedo perhaps. When you have been for a run the heat rising from the engine will warm the tank making the petrol produce more vapour, hence the smell. I bet you only notice the smell on a still day (no wind), it is a sure sign that the tank is being vented correctly, be more worried if you cant smell anything, I had that problem on another bike and it caused no end of trouble.
I hope this explains it? Regards, Tim.
Q
. I've got a Royal Star with a seat that seems to make me slide down towards tank and the riding position hurts my back which is not in the best of health. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Arnie
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Q
. I have just recently purchased a Dragstar XVS650 Classic. I find the ride very hard and when I have a passenger, (I weigh about 14 stone and my wife is approx 8/9 stone). Is there an adjustment that could be made to the suspension to make the ride softer?. If so could you let me know what to do?
Thank you, Andrew
A
The adjustment to the rear shock is under the seat and easily accessible with the c spanner in the tool kit. Ensure tyres are at correct pressure, (they are sensitive) and try a couple of settings, I used to put mine on level 3 which suited me (somewhat on the chunky size) and occasional pillion. It's a matter of trying and seeing what suits. Good luck, Ian.
If, like myself, anybody is searching for a more comfortable pillion pad on the 650 Dragstar (not the classic) Yamaha will supply one: part no. STIR-4YV25-30-02. when mine came it was a Corbin seat. Cost is anything from £145 to £175, my wife said it was worth a lot more. (The Hawksworth family)
Q
. I have a set of Highway Hawks on my 650 DS I also have a burnt leg from the pipe from the rear cylinder. Is there a heat shield available anywhere to cover this. I cannot be the only one who has suffered this HELP !!
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Q
. I have a 535 Virago. Bought it 2 years ago, and fitted (new) matching Continental tyres. The handling is perfect. I've covered 6000 miles. The rear tyre has 4 to 5mm of tread left. The front tyre has 2mm of tread left. I've has dozens of bikes, and the rear tyre always wears out more quickly than the front.
Do 535 Virago's wear out their front tyre more quickly than the back? If so: Why?
Or is there something wrong with my bike?
Can anyone help? Reply to Andrew Gadd ajgadd2007@yahoo.co.uk
and the webmaster
Q
. I need to renew the front tyre on my 535 Virago, but some tyre fitters are recommending that I fit tyres from the same manufacturer to the bike. Is this correct? I know that with car tyres you are not supposed to mix tyres of differing construction methods, ie crossply with radial. Currently, the back tyre has lotsa treat left, made by IRC, with markings Grand High Speed, 140/90 -15 70 S. The front tyre is a Bridgestone 3.00S19 49S. Looking forward to your replies.
Email gdayimbruce@yahoo.co.uk
and the webmaster
Q
. Regarding Bravado Tyre Trims, I have tried to fit these to my tyres on my Royal Star but to no avail, they just keep blowing off the rims, has anybody out there come across the same problem and how did they rectify it?
I've cleaned the wheel & tyres so there is no contamination on them but to me the trims are made just that bit to big to centralized on tyre & rim to give a airtight seal.
PS, does anyone know where you can get whitewall tyres to fit a Royal Star?.
A . Hi, I've just ordered a set of whitewall tyres for my XVS650 Classic from www.mandp.co.uk They sell MAXXIS Classic Tyres. Hope this helps. Regards, Mike Biggles.
A . Conti' supply them (slim and wide) for cruisers. See www.conti-tyres.co.uk/contibike/tyres/milestone.php
A
. You had a question about fitting different branded tyres to your bike. I'm no expert, but went through the same queries a short time ago. The answer has to be 'it's recommended'. To get on a Type Approval list, the tyre manufacturer has to prove (by real, live tests, in wet conditions, at high speed etc) that their tyre is compatible with the bike. By buying the same branded tyres, you know they will be ok. If you fit different brands, and the bike weaves at 50 mph, what will you do?
In these days of liability, if you had an accident, and the insurance company (and the police) could say your tyres were suspect (ie. not the same brand) the insurance co might walk away from their responsibility.
What should you do? Go to a decent tyre dealer and ask for tyres that are recommended for you bike.
Hope this helps - Andrew Gadd
I have own a 2001 XVS1100 Dragstar since August 2004 which then had 2000 miles on the clock , just after 3 months from purchase with a further 1000 or 2000 miles on the clock it started to develop the a oil level light problem. After about 10 mins of setting of on a journey the oil light would come on and stay on for about 10/15 mins. Eventually over the next couple on months and a further 1000 miles or so the oil light permanently stayed on after a few seconds from starting the engine. By the way the oil level is correct and i have even tried it over full .
Okay I thought, it's time to either to do one of two thing, either stick a plaster over the oil level light so i am unable to see it has it pretty much a useless piece of equipment given that you can very easily tell if the oil level is correct before a journey by looking at the crank sight glass, that's if you are able to manage to keep your bike vertical which in not the easiest thing in the word to do. Given that this fix may not look to good on a cruiser i decided my 2nd approach may be a better solution may be to replace the oil sender which is located under the crank case at a cost of £40/45 which is basically only a little electrical float thing. When I had done this to my delight the oil level light was working as it should, great but expensive!!!.
Well after about a further 12 months and 4500 miles have now passed the little (+!&%$^) has started to act up again. This time i think i will try a different approach by remove the 12 month old oil sender clean it out with some oil dispersant and refit it in the hope it works for a further 12 months. Has I did notice with the first failed and original oil sender that there was thick black oily crud within the body of the sender (after thoroughly dismantling and destroying after testing) which just may prevent the oil sender float from working correctly. I will let you know how I get on soon after I service the bike next time.
I would be very interested to find out if any other have had similar problems as stated and if they have managed to effect a permanent fix for the above.
A
.
Hi yer. They all do that! No they really do! Mine did, Sarah's does, Anne's does, Ian's did etc etc it's a design fault with the oil level sender thing that Yamaha ignores exists! I used to just check my oil level regularly and ignore the red light. A little disconcerting but if you are confident in your engine and oil level its no real hassle to ignore it!
Dave C12
Oil Level Warning Light Update
Well I am still the proud owner of a 2001 XVS1100 Dragstar and the last time I wrote on the subject of the oil level warning light I had replaced the oil sender approximately 12 months before and had just given the bike a service at 7206 miles in August 2005 .
Shortly after this the dreaded oil warning light started to act up again so in September 2006 with 9300 miles on the clock It was time again to give the bike a service. This time I removed the oil level sender float (underside of the crank case front right which is held in place with a cover plate and 2 bolts) flushed it out with petrol and let it dry before reinstalling. I have now done a further 747 miles on the bike and the oil warning light is now behaving itself again, I hope it stays that way until the next service.
I have over the last 12 months spoken to a number of Dragstar owners and it appears that this problem is well known. One member from VSOC Centre 6 even confirmed that cleaning the oil level sender would cure the problem and apparently not all Dragstar's suffer from this problem.
I think in my own case it may have had something to do with time and how the bike has been used and stored. The first owner purchased the bike in July 2001 and the service book shows it had its first service at 310 miles in July 2002, Another service was carried out at 1593 miles in August 2003. When I purchased the bike in August 2004 it had 2900 miles on the clock and was again serviced prior to my collection, this bike was in mint like new condition and remains so to this day. Clearly the previous owners had devoted lots of loving care and attention to this bike. So why has the oil level warning light problem arisen given that the bike had generally bettered the Yamaha recommended service interval.
My theory is and it is only a theory is that the oil level sender needs regular maintenance. This is not advised within the owner manual or Yamaha workshop manual. Bikes with little yearly mileage as mine are general only used about 6 months of the year and then not on a daily or weekly basis. I assume that very minor particles of usually suspended solids within the oil settle to the lower part of the engine when not in use given time, it may take weeks or even months. Now where is the oil level warning sender, yes you have guessed right, at the bottom of the engine.
When you change the oil these settled solids remain in the engine around the oil warning sender float this being the lowest part of the engine just waiting to make the float malfunction. Just try removing the oil warning sender after you have drained the engine oil you may be very surprised to find out how different the oil is that comes out from the oil warning sender hole after its first removal than the oil you have drained from the engine. Now turn the oil sender upside down on your work bench and see how thick and black the oil is that comes out of it, now this really did surprised me (I now wish in December 2004 I had only cleaned it and not renewed the oil warning sender float as I would now have been better off by £40/£45).
After fitting the new oil warning sensor float and taking a test ride to make sure that it was working correctly I decided to bench test the old oil warning sensor as it seemed a very simple item. At first I was unable to get it working but after a little cleaning it worked.
Unfortunately the oil sender / red oil level light did start to act up periodically again just after I serviced the bike in August 05 (refer to first paragraph). I did think about removing and cleaning the oil warning sender float at this service but I had a laps of memory before filling the engine with fresh oil. Big BIG Mistake I have been kicking myself until I serviced the bike this September please refer to 2nd paragraph above. By the way this time the oil level sender was only very little contaminated and was much easier to clean out.
The moral of the oil warning light saga is that each time your change your oil you may as well clean out the oil level sender as it takes less that 15 minutes and its just reassuring when that little red light is not glowing in your face.
Now Dave from C12 now that you are armed with the above information I hope you will appreciate that Dragsters don’t need to do that, no they really don’t need to do that!! not even yours, Sarah's, Anne's, Ian's etc etc and its not a design fault with the oil level sender. It’s a maintenance issue that Yamaha should have addressed in their Workshop manual.
Regards, Tom Clarke, VSOC Centre 6
Probably a lot of people know this but maybe some don't. On my 1988 XV1000, the oil light kept coming on when given a bit of throttle at about 4000 revs. Also on the side stand, with the engine running, it did the same. My thoughts were 'knackered engine = no oil pressure'. I found out through the web that it is an oil level light, not oil pressure light and it is a common problem to get a false low level warning. Thanks to Rovpaul@aol.com
Q . I own a 1986 XV700 Import. After riding out with Virago owners, I have realised my bike is undergeared (60mph=4000rpm, 75mph=5500rpm). I would like to hear from other XV700 owners as to whether this is normal or has something on my bike been changed. The diff would be the obvious answer, if so will a diff from a 750/1100 Virago fit?
A
.
I have an '83 XV750. It runs 4000 RPM at 60 mph. This is normal for older v-twins. An 1100 runs about 3300 RPM at 60 mph. There's a good discussion on this in the forum at voc.org.
Thanks to Gene Fly
Rear Shocks and Suspension Problems
Q . My problem is this, after 21 months and 15500 miles from new, I'm now on rear shock no 4. Yamaha, after much badgering, say that they THINK the load capacity is 200kg. They won't do, or even advise on, heavy duty shocks. Has anybody had the same problem? The beastie in question is a XV1100 Dragstar.
Update 1:
It is now 24 months at 17000 miles, shock no5 is beginning to fail! Yamaha's response is that I must be overloading the bike. I've heard from 2 people who have had similar problems. How many riders are having suspension troubles?
Update 2:
I'm now at 31 months and 21500 miles, I've given up on Yamaha and been using a Hagon monoshock rated for 250kg for 4 months without a grain of trouble. I spoken to various bike companies, and this 200 kg limit seems to be industry standard. It feels a little strange at first as the back end is raised by about 2 inches, but you soon adjust, and well worth it to stop the 'Skippy the bush kangaroo' effect.
Contact pigpenandjenny@cwctv.net
and the webmaster
Q . Virago shocks are the pits!! I replaced mine with Fornales air shocks, no spring, so no bottoming out! They will fit any 1000 or 1100 Virago and they have polished (chrome like) enclosure. Rob
Q
.
XV1100 Fork Seals. I have paid for these to be replaced (leaking) to often now. I'm told that it's because the machine is not used enough. I normally do about 2000 miles year when the sun is out, then it goes back into the garage
Does anybody know of a seal that will handle this situation and not harden whilst stored??
A . Know this was posted a while back but having suffered leaking seals on the wife's new XV750 trike think it is because when parked for a while with steering lock on it puts pressure sideways on seal over time it distorts the seal causing it to leak all the time now park the trike in garage with steering straight no side loads this may help if parked for long periods. Ian M C14 VSOC
Q
. I have a 1992 XV 750. The previous owner removed the left cover to replace the starter clutch and pinched the wires replacing the cover. I removed the case and repaired the wires and it started right up. Now before I complete the assembly the starter will not turn over. There is no fire at the solenoid I can jump around it and it will turn over but with no spark to the plug. I have
checked all the relays and the diode and all checks out fine. Does any one have any
suggestion on what it may be. Thanks for any help. Larry
Please email klhlch@skywi.com
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Q
. I have a 1997 Virago XV750. Recently broke down a found that new battery was completely dead. Recharged the battery and started the tests with the bike running at 2000 rpm and noticed there was smoke coming of the rectifier on the back of the rear foot rest. I checked the resistance of the 3 white wires coming from the generator (stator) and all measured 1.4 instead of 0.5. Would this fry the rectifier? should I put on a new stator or do you know of a fix? Cheers Mick
Please email mlba@blueyonder.co.uk
Q
. Hi, I have a 1996 250 Virago, it will run for a few mins but when it warms up it blows the main fuse, I replaced the rectifier/regulator unit, the one with the heat shrink on it, but the problem remains, if I replace the fuse it will blow again straight away, but if I leave for a while it will start again, I'm running out of fuses!!! Any ideas? Thanks, Colm.
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Q . Hi, I have a 1994 750 Virago, runs fine, running lights work, hi/low beam works ok, don't have horn, turning lights, or brake lights. Any suggestions on where to start to look for problems? Thanks, Ronnie Foster
A I am restoring a 1982 XV750 Virago and had a similar problem. Pull the left horn and blinker apart. Inside there a small breakdown sometimes occurs. Its really tight but proceed carefully looking for broken wires. If wiring breaks down there it can interfere with the brake lights. Also if you don't have a wiring diagram. I would suggest getting one. I found one on the virago owners website.
Q
Can any one help me
I have 1983 750 virago with no spark at plugs I have only had it 3 months so new to Viragos Thanks
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Q
Hi. I’ve been working on a 535 for a mate who hasn’t a lot of cash. The bike has been stood for two years and after charging the battery and changing the plugs, I finally got it to run. However, my
Optimate said the battery was weak so I fitted a new one. Since then the bike start button does precisely nothing. I can’t hear the fuel pump either. It’s like there’s a cut-out switch or fuse somewhere. I’ve tried the clutch and sidestand switch and nothing changes. I’ve also clicked the engine stop switch, and I can hear a solenoid click but that’s all. If I short across the big terminals on the starter relay/solenoid the starter turns and the engine starts quite easily so I’m tempted to think this is what’s broken. However, as I can’t hear the fuel pump running, it seems odd and I don’t want to buy one and find I’ve missed a fuse or something. HELP! Thanks. Lee
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Tip
My 1991 XV1100 Virago had been giving the odd misfire when idling but was otherwise running OK until I decided to replace the front exhaust and remove the swing-arm for painting. A lot of stuff was stripped off the bike to do these jobs and on re-assembling I was surprised when it wouldn’t start. I had fuel to the engine but no spark. After 3 days of frustration, checking and doubling checking I found the grey wire from the pickup coil to the igniter box had broken inside the wire about 2 inches back from the igniter box plug. This was where it bent back upwards to enter the wiring harness and being a sharp bend with general vibration had work hardened then snapped but because it was held together by the outer sheath had remained in contact until the movement from my dismantling. If it happened on mine there may be others out there with this problem waiting to catch them out.
Bob Dodds (Centre 4)
Tip
Hi all, I felt the need to share this with all Wildstar riders as it confused the hell out of me! My bike - Wildstar, 4 years old with 31,000 miles on the clock.
I have recently fitted two cool looking fog lights under the headlight and rerouted the electrics though the handlebars. Job completed, test ride to Ipswich from Reading to drop 1/2 a Dragstar engine off for a mate.
Anyway, on the way back the fuel reserve light came on and stayed on and the gauge showed empty. Filled up at the next fuel stop...no change. Home = panic ! Was it the new wiring for the lights or the rerouted electrics.
Checked all the wiring for everything, everywhere but no joy. Put the bike back together, reconnected the battery and the engine started to turnover by itself !!., very quickly disconnect battery...
Sod it...while thinking cap on thought I would take the tank off and get the blocked vent pipe for the tank sorted out (ref imploding fuel tank FAQ).
As I could not find any issues with the wiring and as the first hint of an issue was the reserve light, I decided to remove the sender unit from the tank to inspect it (as you do ...).
Low and behold most of the pins/metal contacts (should be 6, 1 left) that connect the float arm to the circuit board on the sender unit were missing.
Fitted new sender unit...problem fixed...bike, fuel tank gauge and lights work fine.
Conclusion = Either the lost metal contacts had caused a short out within the sender unit or if the sender unit goes it causes problems with the rest of the electrics.
Who knows ?? Ride safe all, Steady
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This info applies to the 535, but I suspect applies to most models. The problem was that the ignition switch became unreliable, and would not switch on every time. Sometimes it was found that turning the key on, and then turning it back slightly towards off would work. Then it failed altogether, in the dark on a busy intersection. Proceed as follows.
- Unbolt switch bracket from bike.
- Follow cable back to plug-in connector, and unplug. Using a marker pen, draw a line down the side of switch, bracket, and white rear cover to aid alignment on re-assembly.
- From now on, keep the whole thing key-hole downwards. Carefully remove the two screws holding whit rear cover, noting position of drain hole. Beneath this are several wires soldered to terminals.
- Gently tug/prod each one to check security of soldered joints. In my case, one fell off immediately, and was the cause of the trouble.
- If you have same problem, scrape terminal clean with a small screwdriver, cut back wire about 5mm, and resolder using a BIG iron. If you don't know what you are doing, get help. It is not funny losing engine and lights at night.
- Now lift off black plastic disc with terminals, and clean underside brass ends of terminals with very fine sandpaper. Also clean brass contacts visible down inside switch body.
- If competent to do so , check continuity of each wire using an ohm-meter or a battery and test lamp.
- Carefully re-assemble and refit switch . I hope you have as much success as I did. (Ken Hardy).
Q . I am really struggling with my charging system on my 1100 Virago. I have a new battery and a new rectifier regulator and the volts AC across the coils of the stator coils are about 20v at 2000 rpm. I have checked the earth of the rectifier regulator and all is OK - the fuse is not blown and the feed to the battery - red lead is OK - continuity to the battery - but only reads 3v DC out of the rectifier regulator. What am I doing wrong?
A
, I think you have a problem!
I have a similar problem on my XV1000 though not as bad. I've asked around and have been given some info but I'm sure how reliable it is. The output from my alternator is 38 volts ac across any two windings and I was told that this has to be divided by 3 (3 sets of windings) to get the voltage after the rectifier. In my case this about right as I get 13-13.5 volts across the battery with the engine running, just enough. Apparently the alternator output should be nearer 45-50 volts ac but I can't find any confirmation of this in my service manual. First thing to check is the resistance of the alternator windings, you may have a break. Should be 0.5-0.55 ohms across any two wires (disconnected from rectifier) also check your wiring loom were it runs into the engine casing, may have got damaged. Another favourite is bad earthing particularly where the rectifier/regulator connects to the frame but if you're getting a low output from the alternator the best bet is the alternator wiring.
Best I can do (from 'Cashstrapped' on VSOC Online Forum)
Regulator / Rectifier
I recently had a rectifier go on my XV750, frying the battery. After obtaining a new one in France (sent out by Moores of Hemel Hempstead) I looked at the heat sink setup as I know these things dislike heat. I found the contact between the Rectifier and the footrest bracket negligible.
I therefore filed flat the aluminum bracket and made a simple aluminium heat sink from sheet and allowed it to protrude as much as possible beyond the rectifier bending it away around the edges of the rectifier. I also used heat sink paste.
As an extra cooler, I used an old small computer CPU fan (readily available) wired from under the seat to come on when the ignition is on.
Initial results are that the aluminium gets mildly warm but the rectifier is relatively cool and so far no more troubles.
If anyone wants more info on the arrangement contact peter.lipman@lineone.net
Keep it cool PL
Vehicle Identification Plates (VIN)
Q
.
My newly acquired Motorcycle has the following VIN JYA3JCN05PA013119 stamped on frame which I am trying to understand for Parts ordering etc. I have deduced that:
It's not a California model.
Build date 10/92 from frame label.
JYA code for Yamaha Motor Corporation USA CYRESS.
Engine Number 3JC - 013119.
3JC should be 3JCA:3JCB for 1993 according to Haynes.
N05 don't know.
PA013119 sequential Production Number but according to Yamaha 1993 service data sheet XV535E,EC the numbers start at PA014101.
Customised with Ride to Live parts.
Can anyone put me on the right track? I have tried the VOC US
A
.
Hi! In checking the Clymer manual I have just bought the engine number you list is for a U.S. model XV535A, 1990. If you ever need a manual, I highly recommend this one. Loads of info. Hope I've helped you out (Doug Townley)
Q
. I have a 1990 XV1100. Having laid the bike up for a month I tried to start it last weekend with no luck. I have found I have no feed to the fuel pump. Has anyone else come across this problem? I've been told to check the relay but I'm not sure. Can anyone help please?
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Q . Bike starts if left long enough but engine only runs for 3 or 4 mins then dies. As it dies the fuel pump relay makes fast clicking noise, don't know if this is normal. Fuel pumps as far as the carbs continuously. Doesn't run on one cylinder, both cylinders die. Have put in new fuel pump relay to no effect. Was using a lot of Redex in fuel 'cause thought it might be carb icing but bike doesn't start unless left overnight. Any ideas please?
A . Hello. I have an 84 virago 1000 I have similar problems with my bike. I did a complete tear down and rebuild of the bike and before I took it apart it had a slow clicking to the fuel pump and when I put it back together it had the fast clicking that you are talking about and it did the same thing yours does, starts, runs for short period of time and then dies. As soon as it dies the fuel pumps starts clicking again real fast. Now I know I have tried everything I could think of and I could not figure it out. So I started talking to my brother and told him what it was doing and he told me about a car that they had worked on that ran real bad but they could get it started and then it would die and they came to the conclusion that they had the firing order out of wack. Well it got me to thinking that I did have the wires that go to the coils off when I rebuilt and when I put them back together did I cross these somehow. I started wondering if somehow this would be my problem. Well I read thru the book and there are two red and white wires that goes to the coils, one which goes to the left coil and one goes to the right coil, which I would assume are the power wires. Then there is a grey wire that runs from the igniter unit to one coil and an orange wire which runs from the fuel control unit to the other coil. Apparently it does matter if these two wires are backwards. Only the orange and grey ones would be backwards if they are. Again one goes to the left and one goes to the right. Well I looked in the Clymer manual and I had these wires backwards as far as I could tell. I switched them and I got the slow clicking in the fuel pump that I remember. Now I don't know if you had these wires off on yours but this seemed to be my problem. I just figured this out but I haven't got to ride the bike yet so I'm not sure if this fixed it but it seems to have done. P.S. the only wires I switched were the orange and grey wires right at the back of the coils . Jon Pridemore.
Q . My 1990 H reg Yamaha Virago 1100 has stood for a while and now won't start. Starter motor and solenoid gets hot and drains battery. Any ideas please?
A
. Although electrical problems are usually hard to pinpoint, I would guess that your problem sounds like a bad ground. I would check the ground wire coming off the battery for corrosion. Check it not only at the battery but also at the frame. Sometimes the wires will get corroded inside the insulation also but will look just fine on the outside. You can check this by bypassing the ground by just using some jumper-cables. Connect one end to your battery ground and the other end to a paint free area on the frame. If that does not work, you might check your starter gearing, if it sat for a long time and say water got in there, the gears may be locked up. Just take them apart, noting how they are placed in the case, and clean them. I would recommend getting the manual for your bike first however, because you don't want to play guessing games with how parts go back together.
Keep on keepin on, Mike.
Q
. My brother recently bought my 1100 Virago off me. It's been stood in his shed while he's been in hospital but now he can't start it. He's tried a new battery, tested the starter, checked the fuses, then he was told to get the relays tested, or it could be the Ignitor box. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Alan
Email AlanFrod@aol.com and the webmaster
Q . My bike won't start....I have a 1984 xv1000. I was recently vandalized, they took the ignition, the part you put the key in. When they did that, they cut the wires to get it out. I got a new part, and replaced it. The bike won't start. The battery is good, and I don't know what else is wrong. I am thinking however that there is a fuse blown. The problem is I don't know where the fuse block is. The only fuses I found are in the instrument panel area. Are there more fuses? Why won't my bike start?
A . I had the same problem with my 1985 xv1000 and there is a 20amp fuse under the seat. Hope this helps.
Q
. I am looking for advice for a technical problem I have with my 1980 XV 750. It will not start and I believe the idler gear will not engage with the starter ring gear on the crank! I have replaced the idler gear once already and this cured the problem for about a month only. I understand there is a technical cure - the original set up won't do it.
Otherwise I am wondering if I could replace with starter gear from later models which has been changed (I wonder why!) and if so how complicated this would be. I should add that the electrical side works ok so I know it's a mechanical problem. Can you help? I would like to get this bike back on the road. Regards Mark West.
A
. Starter problems on the early bikes (mine's a 1982) are common. The friction clip on the outer idler pinion looses its grip. I put a jubilee clip on it and tightened it until it moved at 5.5 lbs on a spring balance. Works perfect. Then I found a place on eBay,
*chopperbobs*cycleworks* in America, who supply a laser cut clip that also does the job. They can also supply a 2mm washer to go behind the pinion to reduce how far it has to travel and stronger bolts for the starter and a shim. I bought the lot $38.40 USD and you also get a full parts list and items on the starter problem.
I also cut the spring down to about half its size, carefully bent the ends so it does not
foul up or snag, usually fires first time.
Thanks to Steve Westbury
Q . Hi. We have a US import 920 XV & are having problems with starting the bugger! Despite having the starter rewound and fitting new brushes, it seems to suffer from a lack of 'effort'. The rest of the electrical system is up to scratch and a new battery is in place. Some years ago, a friend with an XV750 had similar problems and I seem to recall a modification or a different starter motor cured his problems. Do you have any info/ideas/advice or contacts who might be able to help us solve this ? Tools and facilities are not a problem - but the lack of knowledge is! Any help would be greatly appreciated
A . If yours is a 2 brush starter motor you might benefit from a 4 brush starter as it works on my xv750. Available from Pitstop tel; 01773 512355. about £250 (Steve Westbury)
Q
. My XV1100 has developed problems starting when hot. I've been told it could be the windings. Anybody know of anywhere I can get my starter serviced. Or can anybody give me any other advice of what it might be, I've already bought a new battery and checked the brushes. (Tony Centre 10)
Reply to fivestagg@ic24.net and the webmaster
Q
. I have a XV750 1992/93 model.. I was having trouble getting it to start on the button. I have replaced the starter clutch, checked and cleaned the starting motor, replaced the gear idler 2 (27t), replaced the wheel starter, and compression spring and it still wont start on the button.. It appears that the drive lever assembly is not pulling the idler gear far enough to engage with the alternator rotor cog on every attempt. If I put a screwdriver behind the drive lever to assist in pulling the drive lever assembly out some times it will engage other times it feels solid and will not pull..
Hope this makes more sense to you than it does me thanks again Terri.
Email terri_1uk@yahoo.co.uk and the webmaster
Q . Hi All. Thought I had a flat battery when it wouldn't start- the starter just clicked away merrily without turning the engine. Bought new battery and guess what still the same problem press starter and the rapid clicking but no engine turning. Any ideas please? Cheers, Mike.
A . Well the answer in the end was that the earth strap which is apparently behind the exhaust was loose!
Q
, I have a 1986 Yamaha Virago 1100 XVS bike and I get about 60 mpg ( Imperial so it is fairly economical ).
My bike runs around 1600 RPM idle when I have been out on the highway and the bike is obviously warm but it is annoying when I pull in to town and try to drive at very low speeds in heavy traffic.
When starting off from lights or a stop the bike lurches ahead and it is hard to go slowly because of the high revs so I end up easing the clutch in and out.
If I let the bike cool down completely it will return to the normal 900 rpm on the tach.
Does anyone know what the problem is that could be effected by the bike running at a higher temperature on the highway causing the idle speed to get out of whack and how this could be corrected?
I don’t know a good mechanic but would take it somewhere during the winter to get it fixed if I could get the problem solved.
Being a normally aspirated engine and 1986 it may be hard to find someone experienced enough to fix it. Any suggestions?
Please email Doug at hansonds@frontiernet.net
and the webmaster
Q
, I have just put straight through exhaust pipes on my XV 535 DX Virago 2001. Do you know what size jets I will need as the engine is now running too rich?
Reply to Mick at murray.jones@greenhous.co.uk
and the webmaster
Useful
Information. From time to time I visit your site, and thought I might have something to offer you in the way of carby help. I am a Virago Owners Club member from the USA.
After several years of working with European customers I though it worth the time to send you my link in case any of you chaps could use some help. My site and it's enclosed link will help explain much of what I do, but if you have any questions please feel free to ask.
http://www.classiccarbsandmore.com/
Thanks for your time and I hope you all enjoy many safe miles of road ahead.
Respectfully yours,
Michael D. Belluomo
VOC member #8014
Wichita, Kansas
USA
1) Just like to share a problem that hopefully I have now resolved.
Problem started with poor running and struggling to reach 55mph. Looking on your excellent website and other FAQ's realised that this problem with 535 Viragos was common. Did the usual, carb diaphragms no change, inlet rubbers no change, coil for rear cylinder as my local garage advised me it was only running on front at high revs and on demand, no change.
Black Box sent for testing... returned okay. Garage had bike for a month and were scratching their heads and although they had the carbs off twice and told me they were operating okay suggested I buy replacements.
Argued the bill for work done and got reduction on the basis that it had the same fault it went in with and took the bike home.
Ran electrical continuity checks on all circuits and found that one of the carb heaters and the thermostat was not passing current. Isolated the circuit and took it for a run. 70 no problem and response and accelaration unbelievable in comparison to before.
Strange thing is my 535 is a 1993 model and they were not fitted until 94 with heaters. Will get new parts when I can find a supplier (any suggestions greatly received).
email mactarn@fsmail.net
2) As I know you get more than your fair share of carburetor-related questions I thought I'd add my 2 cents to your bank of information. If you ever find that any of your subscribers need extensive and thorough carburetor work, please feel free to consider offering my services as an option.
Currently I am a member of the Virago Owners Club and the VMAX Owners Association. In case you ever cruise to any carbs sites, you might find info on me out there. I am listed on the web page of Mac McCurdy (Technical Director for the Virago Owners Club) as a source for carburetor work. His site is found at
www.drpiston.com. I am also listed on the web site of David Denowh, who rebuilds the Virago TCI ignition units for the older bikes.
Here is my current web link. www.geocities.com/mike33div/My_Bike_Page.html
Right now I own 5 "riding" bikes a '84 Yamaha XV1000 a '85 VMAX and a '84 V65 1100 Honda Magna, a '86 Yamaha Fazer 700, and a '84 Honda VT700 Shadow. In the past year I have also owned a '85 XV1000 Virago, a '85 Yamaha Maxim 700, a '84 XV700 Virago and a "83 VT500 Honda Ascot. I like bikes ya might say!
I'm closing in on my 200th carburetor restoration, and my customers are always very happy to recommend me as a source of professional carb work. I am very humbled to say that one of my recent XV1100 Mikuni restored carbs just sold on Ebay for over $600, and a similar set of XV750 carbs went for $320. When you invest in my services, you get your money's worth!
Sometime this Fall I hope to have my website www.classiccarbsandmore.com on line.
I hope that you do not consider me too bold in suggesting myself as a source of professional repair, But I do feel that I can offer a proven method of restoring excellent carburetor function and reliability.
Many thanks in advance,
Mike Belluomo/Classic Carbs & More
415 South Fountain
Wichita, Kansas 67218-1327
USA
Q
, I have a set of Highway Hawk slash cut pipes on my `96` XV1100. I have removed the baffles and
I want to know what size main jets to use in the carbs. Is there a rule of thumb size for an unrestricted
exhaust.
Reply to Mick at Mickmbsuk@aol.com
and the webmaster
Q
, I've stripped my '91 XV535 down for refurbishment, and noted that in the carb intakes there are metal washers with an offset hole. I assume they are for restricting the bike. Does anyone know if it's ok to fit the intakes without the washers, and if so, what else would need doing? e.g. jetting changes etc. I'm ok with stripping and rebuilding the bike. apart from the engine (duh!). Everything else I can manage. Any help gratefully received.
Reply to Matt at andy_kerfoot@blueyonder.co.uk and the webmaster
Q , Hi, I hope someone out there can help. I am new to all this, I bought my first big bike a few months ago (Virago 535 1997), the dealer told me that I should expect well over 100 miles on a tank of petrol. I do not over rev or go stupid on it but I can only ever get 90 miles before I have to switch to the reserve, is this normal ? I am not bothered about the cost in petrol, I do not want to damage the bike, if there is a problem then I want to get it sorted. I hope someone can give me some advice.
A , I get about the same out of my bike, and it is the 'two tank' style. If you've only one tank it'll be less. Doesn't seem to matter how hard you ride either - I still fill up about the 90 mile mark. I don't use reserve very long at all, but it should be good for about another 15 miles or so before you're pushing... (from Andy Palmer)
A , I have a 2002 535 and fill up around 110 miles and have never put more than 8 litres in (13.5 ltr fuel tank). From cold I turn the choke off after a mile or so. In your position I think I'd have the bike serviced and get them to check the carb settings. (from Robot)
Q , 1998 535dx when throttle just opened engine revs increase until engine races. Engine sounds like it has a slight miss, starts no problem and ticks over quite smooth. I have never had to use the choke to start the bike. The diaphragms look ok but one seems a lot less pliable than the other. Any help greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know where to buy reasonably priced spares, I have been quote £53-00 for one diaphragm.
A , When my diaphragms went it paid me to phone up Partfinder (09060 300 100, £1 per minute for about 2 minutes) and order a whole Carb. The carb was virtually brand new for £50. You are right that the dealers will charge near that amount for just one diaphragm. Wouldn't be so bad if they were reliable. One tip for you - try and run the bike as often as you can with good fuel, especially in the winter, the diaphragms crack if they're not used. (from Andy Palmer)
Q
, Confusing Engine Troubles.
About 10 months ago I decided I wanted to ride a bike. 6 months ago I started some training and happened to find a '93 UK spec Yamaha XV535 that was quite tidy, cheap and with all the extras and looks I wanted. The bike was delivered, I was unable to ride it, but it started, sounded OK and looked sound. I didn't pass my test when I expected (I eventually took four goes to pass, examiners are so picky..) so the bike was stored in my garage for 6 months, started every couple of weeks, and went around the block once. In the mean time I bought a 125 to get experience riding.
So I passed my test a few weeks ago. Knowing that the bike didn't start anymore, I took some advice and got a garage to clean the carbs, set them up per the manuals and balance them.
To the problem. I got the bike back and was told that the exhaust was a replacement, non standard unit, hence the nice sound, and that the both carbs had '135'jets that probably weren't big enough for the exhaust. I was told that it was likely the bike would run hot, and that that may explain the bluing on the top of the exhaust. Fair enough I thought, I'll keep an eye out.
The bike seems to hold back at low revs under load, then springs into life, then really holds back at higher revs. this to the extent that in fifth gear I can just about manage 70 MPH. I've been beaten at the lights by a boy racer in a Fiesta (god that hurt!) and I think I get a faster 0-50 from my 125!!.
Now I realise this bike is a cruiser, so I'm not expecting to scare myself - but I expected a little excitement!!
I recently checked the plugs, they are carbonised (and newly replaced) but other wise ok. I am also assured the carb diaphragms are ok too. Air filter was checked before I took it in, that was fine. Seemingly no air leeks either. Bike certainly sounds ok when idling and revving under no load. Haven't needed much choke to start it and the problems seem to get slightly worse when the bike is hotter. I think it did backfire once too. Only got 88 miles from full tank to start of reserve (2 tank system).
Any ideas why it runs so bad, is the set-up wrong, something too rich??
A
, This is a good 'un and one of my C19 buddies had a problem just like this fairly recently. Turned out that the low tension feed to one of the coils was hanging on by just a couple of strands. The effect was to limit the amount of current available to the coil, hence under certain load conditions the bike would either "hang back" or run on 1 1/2 pots. Also, look for any evidence of damage to the wiring harness. I had one detach from the frame and gently trail onto the rear pot exhaust header. This resulted in intermittent shorts in the ignition system and a lot of hassle.
With a problem like this, it's often best to assume that nothing can be trusted & must be checked. So if it were my bike, I'd run through the whole lot, in a slow and methodical way, taking care to leave no stone unturned. Assume nothing - it's easy to overlook small details if a fixed idea gets set in one's mind. Check all electrical connections very carefully and measure the coil resistances. Double check the carbs. Make sure that the fuel system is functioning properly. Check the battery and charging circuit. If the system voltage drops low enough when the engine is running, the igniter unit won't work properly and erratic running will result. The chances are that the fault is being caused by something quite simple, but easily overlooked. Most UK spec bikes don't need a lot of choke to start and will usually tolerate aftermarket exhausts fairly well - as long as there is a reasonable amount of baffle in them. Your problem may well not be generated by the jets or the pipes.
Nonetheless, it is still worth getting the mixture checked properly once the main culprit has been found.
All the best, Scoops
PS.
Hi guys,
Just thought I'd let you know how the story ends...
A few comments and some advice from Alf England Motorcycles brought the after market pipes into question. I was loathed to pay out and get different ones, but unfortunately I had no choice. The join between the front cylinder and the down pipe had corroded (you know that little crease joining the two) and suddenly one day I didn't have a front pipe!!
I managed to get a second hand exhaust from a 2001 XV535 that had been crashed - it was virtually brand new. Made a big difference to the smoothness of the top end, but the bike was still bad at the bottom end and would still only do 55 max!
While I was looking for the exhaust I used a company called Part finder (09060 300 100, £1 per minute for about 2 minutes). They fax about 100 bike breakers twice a day with parts people want. Using this I managed to get a nearly new carb for £60.
I was told new replacement diaphragms could cost over £100 so I thought this would do.
Anyway. Short of time, I got Alf England to fit the carbs. Apparently these carbs are designed for a new XV535 that used dual throttle cables and low compression cylinders, my bike isn't. So I thought all was lost. Luckily it seems that the body hasn't changed, so they changed all the jets and other bits, fitted a single longer throttle cable and did all the usual compression, balancing and other checks. They also had to replace the plugs - apparently the badly running engine had eaten the 2 month old ones!!
I'm currently well chuffed, bike did 55MPH in top. I can now do that in second!! It's a different bike.
Thanks to yourselves I've got my bike fixed and pinpointed the problems really quick. I suspect you were absolutely correct with the diaphragm diagnosis.
I'm now looking forward to being able to ride further, for longer. Thanks, Andy Palmer.
Q , I have a Virago 535. It just seems gutless. It only seems to pull to 55 mph and that's it. When I go down the gear box from 5th to, say, 3rd it wont give me any more. I've checked the carbs and they seem fine, plugs have just been replaced and the air filter too. I've run out of ideas can any one help?
A
, Did you check the condition of the carb diaphragms, not only for holes or tears but also for how well they fit to the slides? What you describe sounds like classic carb diaphragm failure to me. Does the bike run out of breath straight away, or does it run well from cold but get progressively worse as it warms up? If so, suspect the carb heaters. You must remove the caps from the carburettors that cover the diaphragms. Then withdraw the diaphragms and the carb slides. The diaphragms must have no holes or tears in them. They must also be a tight fit on the slides. If they are loose or damaged, air will leak past them and give precisely the symptoms you describe.
Cheers, Scoops.
Q .Why does my Virago 535 have a loss of full throttle power?
A
. My personal experience of running a 535 which suddenly lost all bite when opening throttle more than half, seemed like a breathing problem, so checked out filter, crankcase breather etc.
Removed the carbs and found one piston would not push all the way back , and taking off the diaphragm cover found the diaphragm plus metal ring , plus two plastic washers to grip diaphragm had come apart...
Resolved this by wrapping plumber's tape (for pipe joints, one turn) round ring and re-assembled the whole lot. The second piston failed in exactly the same way.
The boot over the carbs into the air filter box is a real pain, since it is ribbed, so I cut off the bottom two ribs and was able to shove the boot right up into the box. This let me re-install the carbs very easily.
Re much-documented diaphragm problems. My '91 535 Virago recently started to perform really badly, not pulling, max speed 50 mph. I could not detect a mis-fire, it just wasn't pulling. The rear cylinder plug was VERY sooty, the front one was a bit sooty round the body, but the spark gap area was a nice light brown. The rear diaphragm assembly had simply come apart. The diaphragm is held on the black piston by a pressed metal collar. I simply superglued the collar back in and everything works. One point of caution: when you remove the piston and needle from the carb, check that there is a slight bit of play in the needle. i.e hold the piston in one hand and press the tip of the needle. There should be about 1/16th" of spring play in it. Hope this helps somebody one day
(from Ron Dobson)
By way of a big thanks...
I'm not a member yet, (it depends on the bank manager. Hell, he didn't want me to get the bike in the first place.) I've got a Virago 125 and it had problems with the top end. The best I could ever get out of it was 50, and that was giving it all the welly I could.(55 downhill with a following wind). I've been reading some of your readers comments about Diaphragms and although most seem to be for bigger bikes I thought I'd give it a try. I got my son to check it out and he replaced the Diaphragm, put an in-line petrol filter in, tuned it up and hey presto. It's now got a 65 top end, it's swifter on the bottom and quicker to get up to speed. It ticks over with no choke, something it would never do before, and is running so quietly and smoothly it's like having a different bike. It looks as if it's here to stay. So if anyone has the same trouble with sluggish performance and slow top ends try it and see.
Another thing, if you want to make a 125 look bigger take off the pillion seat. When I bought mine the seat wasn't fitted. Every time I put it back on my kids tell me it looks stupid so I take it off again, and you know, they're right. It looks different and bigger without it.
Happy cruising
Sid
Just wanted to let you know, I have a '96 Virago. Last weekend I was having the same problems listed on your site under "Carb Problems"...my top end speed in 5th gear was 50, and it was backfiring and fouling out plugs. We found your site and my husband realised after reading some of the listings on your site that my carb diaphragms were in 3 pieces instead of all one piece. He glued them back together, and put them back on. We rode the rest of the day. We almost got caught out in a storm, but made it home 10 minutes before it hit. (had to ride 70-75 mph to make it home) Thank you all for sharing your experiences on here., sincerely, Brenda, Oklahoma USA
Had the usual diaphragm problem with the XV535...Checked and found that the rear carb diaphragm had small tears around the very edge...patched it with some Loctite Superflex sealant spread thinly and built up gradually...that was 2500 miles ago and still no sign of problem returning... (Nessi)
Also
, I've found this firm for replacement diaphragms on Virago and other carbs very useful .... www.nrp-carbs.co.uk Ride easy all.
Nigel (not joined yet )
Q , Passing lights XV1100se 1998. Can anyone advice the correct way to wire up passing lights with a relay and switch? The relay has four terminals marked 85,86,87 & 30.I don't want to take the live connection straight from the battery as this would make the relay live all the time any help to Howard Payne VSOC member 2623.
A
, Hope this helps?!
I do not (yet) have an XV but this is what I would do (auto electrician for 23 years)
You have to have a meaty feed for these lights so it is advisable to take power from battery
85 put a wire from the feed (i.e. dead side of switch) to here if you want to have these passing lights on when headlight is on, get a feed for the switch from wiring at back of bulb (choose carefully choose the wire that feeds the dip beam if that is when you want them on)
86 lead from here to earth (chassis)
87 put a lead from battery or perhaps at the starter relay battery side to here via suitable fuse
30 from here to your lights.
If you can't find a copy of your owners manual, try this little link from the USA's Yamaha website. Very useful for those little bits you need to know. Not all the manuals are listed.
Now the new correct link is shown...
http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/service/viewmanuals/star_manuals.aspx
Q
, Greetings, I think I have the same problem with the solution described by Andy
Bond (below), please clarify this fix: what did he mean by "loose nuts at he rear swing arm bushes". This might be a life saver for me since i nearly had a mishap the other day when i tried to overtake
another vehicle, when i steered my bike it weaves in the other direction. More power to the Virago Star Owner club (UK). always ride safe
Email sia.mc@energy.com.ph and the webmaster
Q
, What a machine, it rides beautifully at speed, but I notice when I slow down to 40mph the bike starts a ‘weaving’ motion from side to side – it is not too drastic, but I wouldn’t want it getting any worse! I have checked tyre pressures which is the first answer most people give and I think that they are wearing evenly – the bike has done
approx 20,000 miles now – any ideas on what could be wrong??
Thanks, Mark Freeman: e mail: rockin.rollin@virgin.net
and the webmaster
Q , Following my advice, my mate has just bought an 1100 Virago, he tells me that it has a strange steering twitch when he accelerates or decelerates around the 60 mph mark. I've never heard of anyone else experiencing this and wondered if anyone could shed any light on the matter for him. He took the bike to Yamaha who could find nothing wrong. He's now talking of selling it and buying a completely different bike. Just as I was talking him into coming to the next Vultures meeting. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks, Colin Hawkins.
A , I had the same problem on my 535, although I didn't think it was a problem at the time, as I thought that that was how the bike handled, and just got used to it. But when I had the MOT the tester failed it, and asked if I was having problems with straight line steering and an uneasy turning arch going round corners and bends. I said yes. He showed me that the rear swing arm bushes were loose, to me they didn't even move, but when he showed me the travel horizontally at the furthest point at the end point of the rear wheel it turn into about 1 1/2 inches, which was more than enough to cause the problem, the bush nuts were duly tightened, and bike rides like a dream now, and a life saver. From Andy Bond
A
, XV 1100 1996 3700 miles. Mine has started doing the same at about the same speed, if I open the throttle big time at about sixty mph the arse seems to want to over take me, and sometimes going into bends the bike will dip to much like you have a
puncture in the front tyre and drags you down (frightens the shit out of me), I have just spent £450 on a full service and two new tyres (London rip off bastards) and the problem is still around but not as bad. I have a service on my bike before every 4000 miles riding; all bearings and bits have been changed at Yamaha’s recommendations for service intervals. Now is it me or shall I
(except that I am turning into a old tart) get myself a 125 with L plates??
From Steve Tyson
Q
, Has anyone measured how much fork oil goes into each fork on a (J)1992 Virago 1100. I know that the Haynes book of words states that it should be 179 mm (7.0 inches) below top of inner fork tube, but it would be a lot easier to pour the correct amount (mls or fl oz) into the top of the forks.
A
. You'll need 372cc of oil for each fork tube. ( courtesy of http://www.viragoownersclub.org/Tips/f_3.htm#Refills )
Q
.I have a Virago xv1100. I have a bug screen that has cracked from 2 off the fixing holes don't ask me how it's embarrassing. Is there any way to fix them or can anyone tell me where I can get a new
Perspex screen only. It was bought from Yamaha a long time back by the previous owner. Any help would be truly appreciated"
Email rebootuk@hotmail.com
and the webmaster
Q .I have recently fitted a National Cycle Heavy Duty Touring screen to my 2001 model 650 Dragstar which fitted perfectly, however there is severe wind buffeting at any speeds over 45mph (at 60mph its so bad that I cant even focus on anything). I have tried adjusting the screen from its lowest to its highest positions, adjusted the rake of the screen and even tried several different crash helmets to see if that would help but all to no avail. When the screen is in its highest position it is well above my eye level but the buffeting is still there. Does everyone else with screens have the same problem or is it just me? If anyone has any solutions or has the same problem I would be grateful to hear from you.
A . The problem with the wind buffeting on the Dragstar (V-Star here in the states) is the wind coming up from under the windshield and over the tank. The wind then hits you right in the chin and chest and bounces your head around. The way to test if this is in-fact happening is to fold an arm over your chest when going down the road. If the buffeting decreases or stops, then what is needed is lowers mounted just under the shield next to the forks. They deflect the wind out and around you when you are going down the road. It worked for me.
A
. Hi. I had the same problem with my Dragstar and the Yamaha screen. After a lot of messing around trying highest/ lowest and changing the rake of the screen I found that the rake allowed wasn't enough to pull the top edge of the screen back far enough to allow the wind to flow over the screen smoothly. I took a round file to the top holes in the brackets that attach to the forks and elongated them backwards towards the bike. This allowed me to set the screen back as far as its possible to go and this cured the problem. (note that if you do this you will need to leave a small, 2 to 3 mill, gap between the screen edge and the brake master cylinder to avoid marking the screen). Hope this helps. Regards, Steve
Q .I have a 535 Virago, when removing the nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the cylinder head, both sheared off due to rust. I now have 1/2 an inch of stud left sticking out of the cylinder head on both sides. Any suggestions on how to get these out so I can replace the studs?
A .Grant. There are several ways to get broken studs off - stud extractor, drill and tap, etc - but the most effective way I have ever found is to place a nut over the stud (obviously slightly larger inside diameter than the stud itself) and weld it on with an electric arc welder. As well as giving you a nice hex head to put you spanner onto, the heat shock often releases the stud inside the head. (Hint: don’t use gas welding gear as the heat exposure is longer and it is almost certain to melt the alloy cylinder.) (Many thanks to Geoff Pflaumer)
Q
.I have a Virago XV1100 which seems to be fitted with a restrictor kit in the electrical box. I wish to have this removed but am unsure as to how to do this - it may cost me in the region of £200. Can anyone help me - or give me any suggestions?
Email to julie@cumminstransport.fsnet.co.uk or the webmaster
Q .I have a 535 Virago which is limited down. We have checked the carbs and there also appears to be no limiter in the exhaust, any suggestion as to the removal of this limiter would be greatly appreciated.
A . My XV535 has a restrictor kit fitted (F1 International) which is a thin metal plate fitted in the inlet tract between the carb and head. Some have just a hole (like a washer) to restrict the airflow while some others use a series of 'fingers' around the hole pointing in towards the centre. I think this idea is to help atomise the fuel as it passes to help prevent running rich and requiring a jetting change. Let me know how you make out. I still have to remove mine which will be real soon!!!! (Doug Townley)
Q .Just bought a XV1100 Virago to replace my 535 which was stolen. I wanted to know if there is a cure for the incredibly stiff clutch lever on the big Virago compared to it's smaller sibling, or am I just going to have to build up some strength in my puny hands. Thanks for any help.
A When I first purchased my 1100 I too thought that I was being whimpish and suffered the same clutch problem, it also had a tendency to slip when I was in a hurry, until.........don't you just love rallies........at the Gems I got to ride another and was amazed at how light it was. Taking the cable off immediately showed what the problem was, I could hardly move the inner. Liberal application of plus gas followed by WD40 has solved it. (Thanks to Alan Johnson)
Q
. Hi. Just bought a '95 XV750 fitted with Remus slash cuts. Anyone know how the baffles come out? Theres no holding screws/bolts etc... as it's a bit quiet.. thanks
Please email leeellis75@hotmail.com
and the webmaster
Q
. Hi there, I'm thinking of putting an after-market exhaust system on my XV535. Has anyone done this and if so, can they tell me whether there are any increases in power or any weight-saving advantages. Also, if it's worth it, where can I get one from. thanks. Anne
Email answers to annie@burrowsannie.fsnet.co.uk and the webmaster
Q . I am interested in fitting after market exhausts to my XV1100s. There are many products available from the Heine Gericke slip ons (really cheap) to the Highway hawk products. Are there any other products available and what carburetion modifications are required. Also, I want to boost the top end power of the bike to enable tome long distance cruising, France and Spain. Any Ideas? Any recommended tuners out there?
A
. I saw your query on after market pipes for your Virago. Living in Canada with the same bike I have a set of Vance and Hines Classics on my '95 Virago 1100. Great sound, very much like a classic Harley Davidson. You'll need to re-jet as well, which goes with out saying when you make your engine breath better. Attached are two pictures, one is of a Honda Shadow with the V&H Classics on it, the other is a picture of my bike the day I picked it up, (August of this year.) Check out the link to V&H's European site http://www.vheurope.com/ and I have also included a contact for a distributor in your neck of the woods.
Sincerely, Doug Barton
|
Vance & Hines (Europe)
Manchester GREAT BRITAIN Tel: +44-(0)161-335 9955 Fax: +44-(0)161-335 9955 Mail: dave@vheurope.com www: www.vheurope.com |  |  |
Q . I wish to put Highway Hawk Dragon Pipes on my XV750 Virago (USA speck). Would I have to do any alterations to my carburetors or anything ?
This site might help: Scroll to the bottom
http://www.ccworks.org/portal.php?page=12&sid=103e24ec448437eb79c3853087ead329
Q .Can anybody help me? I recently required a 750 Virago which keeps burning the electrode of the plug on one cylinder (after 100 miles or so) causing it to misfire. I've had the coil replaced and the carb cleaned and nothing seems to cure it, but when a new plug is put in, it runs fine until another 100 miles. Help!!
A
.
Hi Ben, With a single carb (?), a blockage would affect both cylinders, so it sounds possible that the inlet valve for the cylinder in question is not allowing enough mixture through. i.e. running to lean which would cause the plug to burn out. Valve adjustment is a quick easy fix if this is the case. Hope this helps, regards, Steve
Q
. I have a 16 year old XV535. After cruising for a while upon deceleration the Engine just runs down in revs and stops. It will start again and runs fine ! Apart from that the engine seems to run fine. Anyone had this kind of problem? I am also trying to locate the mixture adjustment screws (Mikuni Carbs) These are not clearly shown in Haynes manual of course ! Would appreciate any advice.
Please email jkk.knott@ntlworld.com
and the webmaster
Q . Just like to share a problem that hopefully I have now resolved.
Problem started with poor running and struggling to reach 55mph. Looking on your excellent website and other FAQ's realised that this problem with 535 Viragos was common. Did the usual, carb diaphragms no change, inlet rubbers no change, coil for rear cylinder as my local garage advised me it was only running on front at high revs and on demand, no change.
Black Box sent for testing... returned okay. Garage had bike for a month and were scratching their heads and although they had the carbs off twice and told me they were operating okay suggested I buy replacements.
Argued the bill for work done and got reduction on the basis that it had the same fault it went in with and took the bike home.
Ran electrical continuity checks on all circuits and found that one of the carb heaters and the thermostat was not passing current. Isolated the circuit and took it for a run. 70 no problem and response and acceleration unbelievable in comparison to before.
Strange thing is my 535 is a 1993 model and they were not fitted until 94 with heaters. Will get new parts when I can find a supplier (any suggestions greatly received).
A
. Hiya. I had this problem (mine's an F Reg 89 model) - I was told Yamaha had
cured the problem later on with heated carbs but people with heated carbs still
report the problem. My local Garage said he was talking to someone in the pub
and they suggested fitting a hotter plug in the back cylinder. I was up for the
gamble and the bike runs real smooth now, is VERY responsive to a snap of the
throttle and just goes brilliantly. That was 2 years ago and I have not changed
the set up. It just works.
Rob
A
.
Thanks for the response folks. Just thought I'd let you know the story to date. The chaps at Motorcycle Services in Derby suggested that I take my bike to "Sam's Dyno" in Hatton (
www.samsdyno.com
) for a diagnostic run so that they would have a better idea of what to do. The first thing Warren did was to check that the cylinders were developing pressure, because if they weren't then there's no point putting it on the dyno he said. The pistons are supposed to generate 145 units of pressure. The front cylinder was generating 155 and the rear was 135. He said that this could be due to the valves being too closed at the front and too open at the back. He also noted that my spark plugs were rated too hot for the bike and these two issues could be contributing to my problem. The run on the dyno showed that the engine was delivering power smoothly up through the rev's. Also the air/fuel ratio whilst OK, was running from slightly rich to slight weak going up through the revs. This he said was probably due to the after market exhaust. Re-jetting would probably help the bike's responsiveness at high power, but wouldn't help with my problem. Motorcycle Services have now adjusted the valves and down rated the plugs. So far the bike has been behaving itself. So hopefully I've got it cracked.
Watch this space and thanks again! Mike
Q
.
Just purchased an 1100 virago from here not so long ago, but whoever it was left a few details out
The front pot is knocking its brains out, mainly under load, have set the tappets and cleaned all the oil ways including the pump, but its still there, and its not a tappet sort of sound, more of a heavy knock, the only thing i havent done is balanced the carbs, i have been on the viragotech site, and a few others seem to have a similar problem, but as yet, they have no idea what the cause is either, i know the 750's had a problem with the cams, so is it an engine out job to check the rocker faces
Thanks for any help
Please email any answers to mr.d.knowles@virgin.net
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Q
.
When I ride my Virago in the rain I lose power, it back fires and only fires on one cylinder. Took it to my local garage who checked it out but could not find anything wrong. Can anyone help? Thanks Les.
Please email any answers to les.griffiths2@ntlworld.com and the webmaster
Q
.I have just bought a 1992 XV535 Virago. Everything's fine except when going down through the gears, say at traffic lights, and she wants to stall. If she does, she starts straight away again which, as you can imagine, is very irritating. Any ideas? Steve Rawlings (Basingstoke)
Answers to jayne@hamilton8255.freeserve.co.uk and the webmaster
Q .I have a 97XV535 and since she got soaked a couple of months back she "chugs" at the slightest hint of damp weather. Starts off ok then accelerates and decelerates on a whim, I keep thinking I am going to end up in the back of a car. I have had the electrics cleaned and greased and the next step now is for new coils (so say the garage) but I am losing confidence in them because they can't seem to sort this out. I am also blowing lights at a fast rate. Also the fuel consumption seems to have rocketed lately, what should I be getting out of a tankfull? I ride my bike everyday and do about 500 miles a week, I am still very new at all this only having taken up riding in April on a 125 Intruder and then getting the Virago in October so any help would be appreciated
A
. XV 535's have some little flaws any of which can give you this type of problem.
I would check as follows;
1. Rough running & heavy fuel consumption
If the bike starts ok but begins to run rough after a while on the road, suspect faulty carburettor heaters. XV535 carbs are prone to icing in cold and damp conditions - typically if the ambient air temperature dips much below about 12 deg C. The carb heaters are fitted to combat this problem. They can fail at any time during the summer and you'll be none the wiser. But come the cold weather you'll definitely notice that something is not right. The effect is rather similar to that observed when trying to run a hot engine with the choke on.
From your description, I would suspect the heaters first.
If the bike starts ok and runs well but inexplicably runs out off puff early in the rev range, or feels like it's top speed is restricted, suspect split or loose carburetor diaphragms. XV535's tend to suffer from this problem, though bikes that are used less often are generally more prone than those used frequently. Split or loose diaphragms hamper the operation of the carburetors resulting most usually in power loss, but can also cause rough running - especially if only one of the pair is affected.
Poor charging, or a duff battery can result in the igniter unit not functioning correctly. This will also cause the bike to run rough. Which brings me on to ......
2. Blowing bulbs.
Check that the regulator/rectifier is working correctly. These are prone to failure on 535's. My fave mod is to fit a unit from a Honda - CBR600, Super Dream or CX500 are all suitable donors. This is a much sounder unit than the stock Yam item, once fitted it you will probably never see another failure again.
The rectifiers used by Honda do vary a bit from bike to bike, year to year etc, but they can all be used reliably on any XV's. Typically, there will either be five or six wires. If the unit has five wires, there will be three the same colour - often either white or yellow - these are the phase connections to the alternator. The other two will be either red with black or red with green. In either case, the red wire is the positive feed to the battery and the black or green wire is ground (frame). This six wire rectifier differs only in that the extra connection for voltage sensing. In this case, the three alternator phases are the same as for the five wire unit. There will be a red wire which is a positive feed as before. The green wire is ground and connects to the negative battery terminal. The black wire is the voltage sensor and connects to anything that is positive once the ignition is switched on. The feed to the fuel pump is a handy place to make this connection.
On a good battery, the voltage across the terminals should not exceed 14.5 volts with the engine running. Maximum alternator output is achieved at 5000 rpm, but you should see a steady rise from around 13.5 volts at tick over. A failed rectifier/regulator unit will either result in no charge at all, or the voltage rising to a very unhealthy 17 volts plus, without any control whatsoever.
Note that bad earth connections can also result in bulb failure. So if you're seeing the same one blowing all the time, then suspect a dodgy connection. Hope this helps, Scoops.
A
.
My wife's Virago 535 had problems with running on one cylinder and when you placed your palm over the end of the tailpipe that was running rough it sucked instead of blowing! I read on the FAQ's page about diaphragms and HT leads!! The diaphragms when not used much go hard and don't operate as they should which causes the engine to run rough, so I rubbed Vaseline on both sides of the diaphragm which softened the rubber (Vaseline is a oil based lubricant) and I also used it to seal the carb cap to the diaphragm. Next I took off the HT cap and cut the HT lead down by 5mm as the core had less wires showing than it should. The bike now runs on two cylinders and acceleration is smoother with no back-fire as you build-up the rev's.....
I hope this is of some use to someone with a Virago. (GREMLIN).
Q Can you help ? I want to fit spotlights to my 2000 model XVS650 but want to keep the original indicators in the original position. Can you let me know who makes a light bar which would let me keep my indicators? Also do the lights get wired into the main beam/dip beam circuit or do they need a separate circuit , relays or switch etc.?
Regards Sinclair Bremner VSOC member no. 3738
A . Hi, Yes they do make a light bar which holds the spots and keeps the indicators in the original place. I fitted one to my V STAR \ Dragstar 650 Classic. I run mine straight from the headlight but if I have them on for to long they do drain my battery, so I'm either going to put lower power bulbs in or put them through a relay. I don't know where you are but I bought my bar from Stateside Motorcycles in Bournemouth, Dorset but you can get them from lots of dealers. Hope this helps. Regards, Mike.
Q . Question - I have exactly the same problem on my DragStar custom: my two extra spotlights drain the battery flat. Did the lower-power bulbs or the relay help?
A . Well, I've put in 35W bulbs to replace the 55W bulbs that came with the spots, and I can tell you that a stock Dragstar battery cannot power stock headlight + two 35W Halogen spot bulbs. They still drain the battery flat. Time for some re-wiring, I guess...
A
.
The bike will run with spots without any issues if you get the output from the charging system tweaked up a volt or 2. To test whether this needs to be done, position the bike with headlight pointing at a wall or garage door. Start the bike, switch on headlamp and spots and rev the engine. If the lights go bright when you rev then dim when you don't (and there's nothing else wrong, battery etc.) then you need more from the charging system. Another test is to put a volt meter across the battery when the bike is running and the lights are on. You have to have more than 12 volts or obviously the battery will go flat. Hope this is of use, regards, Steve
Q
.I have a 1997 Virago 1100 and recently put on a set of forward controls, which are great, but the back brake is now next to useless not that it was brilliant before. I can only surmise that it is not as effective as it was due to the shortening of the brake arm with the forward controls. Any one got any ideas on a fix as I do not won’t to loose the forward controls. Terry.
Please email ley@gotadsl.co.uk
Q
.Can anyone help me, I want to attach TC forward controls to my 535cc Virago, but I have a Yamaha engine bar and am unsure if I can fit forward controls and keep the engine bar on. I would appreciate advice.
Many Thanks. Marty, VSOC # 3700
Answers to
TANYA@STEELRAVEN.FREESERVE.CO.UK
Q
.Can anyone tell me if fitting forward controls to a 535 is a bit of a **** of a job? I've found a set of Mapam controls but am told that in order to fit them it's not simply a case of taking off the footpegs and bolting on the forwards. Any experience?
Answers to
david.bailey93@ntlworld.com
and the webmaster
Q
.Can anyone help? Looking for more information regarding KJS Single Carb Manifold conversion kit for Virago engines and is there an alternative product made in the UK. Cheers in advance BADSY
Check out this site
http://kjs.hypermart.net/index.htm
Engine Clunks When Going into Gear
Q . I own a Dragstar XVS 1100, only 4000 miles on the clock and a "T" reg bike. The bike is only a couple of months out of its two year warranty. The engine makes a clunking noise when it is put into gear and also when the engine is switched off. My local Yamaha dealers mechanic does not know what causes this noise and suggested that we let it develop. Last week I went for my first long run on this bike, from Fort William to Accrington. The mechanic at Clarke's of Accrington suspects the starter gears, I suspect that he is right because on day two of my long run I got as far as Sleaford near Lincoln when the starter motor shaft sheared. Do any other Dragstar owners have bikes that clunk when put into gear or when the engine is switched off or is mine a one off? Can anyone help me find a starter motor?
A
.
Hey there fellow VSOC'ers, GIBBO here from Centre 15.
My XVS 1100 had the same problem, when shutting the engine off there was a clunk exactly as you describe, it seemed as if the starter was trying to engage. Also when starting the starter didn't always engage correctly. Before you go too far with this, please check to see if the starter motor bolts are twisted, mine were ... please see the following...
Does your Dragstar or VStar 1100 have twisted starter bolts?
Don't know? Then read on!!
Hi,
On the ISRA site (America) I found an article about starter problems with the V-star 1100. The problems are defined by "twisted bolts". Please place the link to the survey on your site and try to let every V-star owner fill in this survey. I checked my starter bolts and they seem to be twisted as well. Still functioning allright though, but the question is for how long?
http://people.delphiforums.com/dadbenny/
Thanks
Ton (The Netherlands),
Member of the VSCN (www.viragostarclub.nl/frames.html)
See my bike;
www.cruisercustomizing.com/Dragstar_T.
Eventually the bike would not start, the starter spun but would not engage, have you ever tried to bump start a Dragstar, don't bother....
I spoke to South Essex Motor cycles at Greys in Essex, they suggested the starter motor and or the starter motor clutch, removed the starter motor, tested it, no problem there then, must be the starter clutch, easy to take off, no special tools needed... yeah right... HA !
Half stripped down, could not get the starter rotor off the shaft, again spoke to South Essex motor cycles, they said bring it over, wee will have a look for you.
The bike was taken to South Essex Motor cycles at Greys in Essex, they stripped off the rotor, with a special tool, removed the starter clutch, fitted a new one, hey presto, all was well with the world. only £390.00 ish + VAT, I asked for a VSOC discount they said hum and ha, but eventually gave me 10% off.
I would use them again
Steve Gibson (GIBBO)
A . Regarding the question on "Engine Clunks When Going into Gear". This is as far as I know intentional - to make it sound like a Harley - my gearbox does this too, and so do all Dragstars I believe. (Morten Jorgensen)
A . Hi, I have a Virago 535 which has always "clunked" when selecting first gear, particularly when cold. Regards. Henry.
A . Mine does that too! Having met other owners, mine is W reg it seems to be a common fault. Have you sat along side a Harley when he engages first? Thanks to Graham Clayton for that one.
Q . Hi my DragStar also clunks into first gear when first started or if stationary for a long period of time. It is not too bad when warmed up though. My bike also clunks through the gears on occasions is there a specific speed at which to change between the gears to avoid any clunking? Kev.Kiff612@mod.uk
A . Hi there, Regarding noisy gear engagement on Virago models . I ride a 535 which has done nearly 50,000 miles .When you get your bike out the garage , especially if it has stood a few days , unstick the clutch . Sit on the bike , start pushing it backwards with your feet , then pull in the clutch and engage first gear . Bike gearboxes unlike car gearboxes have no synchromesh . So to change gear silently and smoothly , the two gears you are trying to engage need to be turning at the same speed . So , when changing up , if you change too slow , engine revs drop too much . You must close the throttle pull the clutch and operate the gear pedal virtually at the same time . The result is a silent sweet smooth gearchange . Changing down is similar , you must de- clutch ,rev the engine and operate the gear lever all at the same time . Only experience will teach you how much to rev the engine . On my high mileage Virago , I seldom hear a clunk as I change . Also check for excess free play in clutch cable . , I expect this also applies to Dragstar models . Hope this helps someone.
Any more answers anyone?
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Q
. Can anyone please tell me the seat height and weight of the 750 Virago please? Also, what year did Yamaha stop production of this model ?
A . The seat on the 750 virago is 28" high and the machine weighs approximately 220kg.
